So, who uses non-motorcycle oil in their bikes?

[Telesque]

Skier wrote: oldnslo wrote: If you care a whit about your engine, you will use a filter designed for that engine. Doing the sub thing to save a couple bucks is a gross example of false economy. Pony up and do it right. On the other hand, you could go ahead and use that Hundai filter and wait for the music from the rod bearings just before the drum solo as the rods exit the side of the block......go ahead, live on the edge.......

I'd honestly feel perfectly fine throwing on a quality Wix/NAPA Gold car oil filter on my bike. But since I don't have a screw-on type, I just go for the Wix donut filter

I know the official topic of this post is oil, but I wanted to know more about filters! :D

If a car filter's technical data says it filters 99.9% Microsmallthingies(:D) and that's equal or better to the performance of the actual bike filter, does it really matter which you use (other than fit, obviously)? Is there a flow restriction, and if that's the same too, then why would it matter?

If I can get the same size/performance filter at Wal-Mart for $1.25, then why should I bother paying $7 for a 'officially for bikes' filter that's technically no better?

[Skier]

From all my research done on oil filters, it's the construction that matters, not the filtering capabilities. I feel better dropping the extra couple bucks on a Wix filter over a SuperTech (WalMart brand), just because I know it's made right.

You can have a perfect filtering screen and it won't do jack if your filter is coming apart after a couple hundred miles. Just my $0.50 Canadian. ;)

[huh]

Skier wrote: From all my research done on oil filters, it's the construction that matters, not the filtering capabilities. I feel better dropping the extra couple bucks on a Wix filter over a SuperTech (WalMart brand), just because I know it's made right.

You can have a perfect filtering screen and it won't do jack if your filter is coming apart after a couple hundred miles. Just my $0.50 Canadian. ;)

have you ever inspected a super tech filter?? they are made by champion labs. which makes a very good filter. champion labs makes stp,mobil 1,etc. but i dont think they make filters for bikes. (super tech) though stp does which is champion labs.

the filter you want to stay away from is fram. the orange turds.


of course wal-mart,kawasaki,honda,ford,etc etc. do not make oil filters. just paying for their name.

[Eberley]

[quote="Skier"]And the local WalMart has just the ticket - their brand, SuperTech, 10W-40 and 20W-40 oils without the energy conservation label or the API starburst...[/quote]

WalMart's SuperTech oil does not have the API starburst symbol? There 5W-30 has it. I just looked at the bottle for my next car oil change. Maybe the 10W and 20W 40's don't have it. But wouldn't WalMart be out of the oil merchandising business if they didn't have the API starburst. I think most cars built in the last 13 to 15 years, at least, require the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol.

[Telesque]

Eberley wrote: Skier wrote: And the local WalMart has just the ticket - their brand, SuperTech, 10W-40 and 20W-40 oils without the energy conservation label or the API starburst...

WalMart's SuperTech oil does not have the API starburst symbol? There 5W-30 has it. I just looked at the bottle for my next car oil change. Maybe the 10W and 20W 40's don't have it. But wouldn't WalMart be out of the oil merchandising business if they didn't have the API starburst. I think most cars built in the last 13 to 15 years, at least, require the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol.

There are at least two different (maybe more?) API symbols. One is a starburst, the other is a circle. I forget exactly what the Starburst is for, but most all oils at least have a form of the 'circle'. The circle symbol reads 'API approved' (or similar) across the top, has the rating othe oil in the middle, and will either be blank or read 'Friction enhancers' (or similar) across the bottom.

Check it out: http://www.dansmc.com/4stroke_oil.htm

[Eberley]

My take on this is that there is only one "starburst" symbol, and it reads, API certified "For Gasoline Engines". Auto makers specify this symbol in their owners manuals so that owners of gasoline engine cars will not put diesel engine oil in their crankcases.

The other symbols are really circles. They have no stary edges around the circle.

The article you attached clarifys that 10W-40 and heavier oil won't be designated as "energy conserving".

But there seems to be no basis for concluding that WalMart's SuperTech oil doesn't meet the same standards as any other manufacturer's similar grade and weight oil, i.e., SG or SH or where ever they are at now. Most Japanese bikes, as the article says, are better off without energy conserving oil.

[Telesque]

Eberley wrote: My take on this is that there is only one "starburst" symbol, and it reads, API certified "For Gasoline Engines". Auto makers specify this symbol in their owners manuals so that owners of gasoline engine cars will not put diesel engine oil in their crankcases.

The other symbols are really circles. They have no stary edges around the circle.

The article you attached clarifys that 10W-40 and heavier oil won't be designated as "energy conserving".

But there seems to be no basis for concluding that WalMart's SuperTech oil doesn't meet the same standards as any other manufacturer's similar grade and weight oil, i.e., SG or SH or where ever they are at now. Most Japanese bikes, as the article says, are better off without energy conserving oil.

The 'For gasoline engines' starburst isn't required for oil to be used in gas engines. It's more of a 'no brainer' for people who aren't sure. Or so it seems, at least. ;)

SuperTech might not have the 'starburst' even if it is still ok for Gas engines and, while it might not have that particular symbol, it should still have the regular 'API certified' symbol, rating it just as good as any other oil.

[/b]

[jonrobertd]

regular wal mart synth 1030 + lucasoil synth add in is that ok?

[Telesque]

jonrobertd wrote: regular wal mart synth 1030 + lucasoil synth add in is that ok?

I don't think it should be a problem?

Bikes usually like heavier oil (from what I understand?) such as 10W-40, or 20W-50, but I suppose that all depends on the bike.

Regular Wal-Mart oil (SuperTech) was mentioned as a good oil by several people in this post.

[old-n-slow]

Oil? :wink:

[jonrobertd]

The 10-30 was what I was wondering about, next change I'll use 10-40 :)

[isnowbrd]

BuzZz wrote: Well I changed it to Rotella T, the synthetic stuff, in a 5W-40 wieght tonight. Worlds better. The engine is quieter and smoother and shifting is night-and-day. It is still an old Yammi box, no hiding that, but very much smoother and easier shifts. I was also very happy to hear the engine nioses quiet down as much as they did.

Synthetic for this bike from now on......

I had the very same experience. Only Shell Rotella T 5W-40 full synthetic from now on for me!

One great benefit I noticed, is that the bike warms up faster and is ready to ride sooner. Back on the dino oil, it seamed like the bike finally warmed up just as I got to my destination. :(

The other nice thing is that it is available at most Wal-Marts for around $13 for 4 quarts.

[txiki]

After reading the post, I'm going to use the super-tech 10w-40 in my Katana750, not synthetic oil or blends, because according to my mechanic they will kill my clucth.

[blair]

Telesque wrote:
Check it out: http://www.dansmc.com/4stroke_oil.htm

Okay. I did. And Dan starts out with this stuff:

dansmc.com wrote:
Check the oil every time you start the engine. No fool'n... every time... without fail... always.

While you are at it oil your rear chain too... EVERY TIME YOU RIDE!!!

:shock:

Dan must spend all of his time playing with his motorcycles with his hands, and only riding them on alternate weekends.

Because unless you see oil pooling on the ground or splattered all over your rear chassis, or the obvious visual and aromatic signs of rampant oil-burning coming from your exhaust, you shouldn't need to check your oil level or color nearly that often. Once every week to two weeks sounds anal enough.

And if you oil your chain every time you ride, you will see oil pooling on the ground wherever you park. I use chain wax, and if I applied that stuff every day, I'd have to get a heavier chain to hold all the wax.

I hope he was just being funnier than I take him for....

[blair]

blair wrote:
Because unless you see oil pooling on the ground or splattered all over your rear chassis...

You see what's coming, don't you?

Yesterday I was doing some work on my bike, checking the oil, snugging the chain, removing and putting back an exhaust pipe to get to the nuts to snug the chain, etc.

And in a classic fit of irony, I forgot to screw the oil filler cap/dipstick back in.

So next time I started the bike, it didn't make its usual brap-brap-brap noise, all I heard was phoof-phoof-phoof and then I noticed something puffing at my pants.

I thought maybe I'd mis-attached the pipe, but no, the bike was spitting oil upwards and backwards. Hitting me, the pipe, most of the right side of the bike, my saddlebag, a borrowed torque wrench that was sticking out of the bag, and the ground for about eight feet back and three to the side...

I lost maybe half a pint, but it was spectacular.

I'm just glad I backed onto the street first and didn't do it in the garage...