I am picking up a '03 Yamaha Road Star Silverado in PA and bringing it back to North Dakota in a few months. I am looking for a good trailer size to buy. Is a 4x8 open trailer to small? Or should I really step it up to the 5x10? Trying to save money on a trailer but don't want to risk it being to small when I get there.
And any links to wheel chocks or the whole rail system?
Thanks
Confused
trailer question
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Johnj
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You could go to Google and type in wheel chock motorcycle. There are like 76 pages. I'd be willing to bet that whole rail system is in there somewhere.
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Always wear a helmet, eye protection, and protective clothing. Never ride under the influence of drugs or alcohol.
The bike is only a couple inches over 8 feet long. It will fit in a 4x8 with just a couple inches of overhang.
I have a 4x8 trailer, one of the cheap ones that came with used car wheels and tires on a 3500lb axle and an angle iron frame. The original floor was 2x6 white pine painted black, and it eventually rotted away. I had a welder slap in a couple extra crossmembers where I figured bolts should go for chocks and tossed in a sheet of 3/4-inch pressure treated plywood. I then bolted 2 pieces of 2x2 angle against the front rail and crossmember to keep the front tire from turning. Then I positioned a couple pieces of 2x2 angle on the floor to prevent either wheel from sliding side-to-side. Once the locations of the angle iron were determined, I drilled the holes and tapped the crossmembers and rail. I fastened the angle iron in place with 3/8-inch bolts. I had rings welded to the rear chocks so I can run a tiedown over the rear wheel to keep it from bouncing around. Finally, I put nuts on the bolts and had them tack welded into place. The bases of the angle that are bolted turn away from the tires. Most people would try to turn the angles under the tires, and I suppose that would work just as well. A couple eye-bolts in the top rail provide secure tie-down points. I can remove the chocks with 8 bolts, and I don't have to worry about the nuts underneath because they are welded on. The bolts have countersunk heads and serve to hold the plywood in place when the chocks are not installed. I have 2 sets of chocks and three sets of bolts, so I can haul one bike in the center or two at a time.
I don't like the idea of a full-width ramp held up in the wind blast. I also don't like pushing a bike up a narrow channel or plank. Instead, I had three frames welded of angle iron, 16x96 inches. I bolted 5/8-inch pressure treated ply to the frames. The vertical lip of the top of each ramp fits in a groove between the vertical lip of the rear crossmember and the plywood trailer floor. I painted the plywood (ramps and floor) with a non-skid paint made from regular deck enamel with 20-30 silica sand added. Dump the sand in the paint, stir well and immediately dump the sandy paint on the plywood and spread with a roller. Almost impossible to slip on that stuff, and if you do, you will regret it. It's like extra-course sandpaper. A pair of roller wheels bolted to the bottom of each ramp make them easy to pull in and out.
Now, these cheap angle iron trailers usually come with junkyard auto wheels and tires. Hubs are available for most US maker 4, 5, 6, and 8-lug wheels. Order hubs to match your tow vehicle and you won't have to carry a spare for the trailer. When tires need replacing, go to Walmart and slap on the cheapest thing they have with the most load capacity. I use P235/75R15 Douglas, the cheapest thing Walmart has, but so overkill capacity-wise they barely wear. I buy the road hazard and tread life warranty, which really only costs about 85 cents more per tire than just mounting and balancing. Five or six years later when the sidewalls start cracking from dry rot, there is still 90%+ of the tread left. Walmart gives me new tires for the price of the F.E.T., about 70 cents per tire. I bought tires for this trailer in 1987 and have had them replaced three times since, for $1.40/pair each time.
Simple and cheap trailer, way tough enough to carry two full-size cruisers plus baggage. I even carried my V8-powered bike plus a bunch of luggage with no problems. Easy to load and unload with a full-width non-slip ramp and floor.
I have a 4x8 trailer, one of the cheap ones that came with used car wheels and tires on a 3500lb axle and an angle iron frame. The original floor was 2x6 white pine painted black, and it eventually rotted away. I had a welder slap in a couple extra crossmembers where I figured bolts should go for chocks and tossed in a sheet of 3/4-inch pressure treated plywood. I then bolted 2 pieces of 2x2 angle against the front rail and crossmember to keep the front tire from turning. Then I positioned a couple pieces of 2x2 angle on the floor to prevent either wheel from sliding side-to-side. Once the locations of the angle iron were determined, I drilled the holes and tapped the crossmembers and rail. I fastened the angle iron in place with 3/8-inch bolts. I had rings welded to the rear chocks so I can run a tiedown over the rear wheel to keep it from bouncing around. Finally, I put nuts on the bolts and had them tack welded into place. The bases of the angle that are bolted turn away from the tires. Most people would try to turn the angles under the tires, and I suppose that would work just as well. A couple eye-bolts in the top rail provide secure tie-down points. I can remove the chocks with 8 bolts, and I don't have to worry about the nuts underneath because they are welded on. The bolts have countersunk heads and serve to hold the plywood in place when the chocks are not installed. I have 2 sets of chocks and three sets of bolts, so I can haul one bike in the center or two at a time.
I don't like the idea of a full-width ramp held up in the wind blast. I also don't like pushing a bike up a narrow channel or plank. Instead, I had three frames welded of angle iron, 16x96 inches. I bolted 5/8-inch pressure treated ply to the frames. The vertical lip of the top of each ramp fits in a groove between the vertical lip of the rear crossmember and the plywood trailer floor. I painted the plywood (ramps and floor) with a non-skid paint made from regular deck enamel with 20-30 silica sand added. Dump the sand in the paint, stir well and immediately dump the sandy paint on the plywood and spread with a roller. Almost impossible to slip on that stuff, and if you do, you will regret it. It's like extra-course sandpaper. A pair of roller wheels bolted to the bottom of each ramp make them easy to pull in and out.
Now, these cheap angle iron trailers usually come with junkyard auto wheels and tires. Hubs are available for most US maker 4, 5, 6, and 8-lug wheels. Order hubs to match your tow vehicle and you won't have to carry a spare for the trailer. When tires need replacing, go to Walmart and slap on the cheapest thing they have with the most load capacity. I use P235/75R15 Douglas, the cheapest thing Walmart has, but so overkill capacity-wise they barely wear. I buy the road hazard and tread life warranty, which really only costs about 85 cents more per tire than just mounting and balancing. Five or six years later when the sidewalls start cracking from dry rot, there is still 90%+ of the tread left. Walmart gives me new tires for the price of the F.E.T., about 70 cents per tire. I bought tires for this trailer in 1987 and have had them replaced three times since, for $1.40/pair each time.
Simple and cheap trailer, way tough enough to carry two full-size cruisers plus baggage. I even carried my V8-powered bike plus a bunch of luggage with no problems. Easy to load and unload with a full-width non-slip ramp and floor.
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving isn't for you.
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BlueBomber
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If you do get a trailer I suggest tie down anchors and wheel chocks from black & gray
http://www.blackandgray.com/main.htm
They've got every piece you'd even need to fasten a bike into a trailer.
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http://www.blackandgray.com/main.htm
They've got every piece you'd even need to fasten a bike into a trailer.
\/\/
Suzuki Boulevard M50 - Bright Blue
Thanks
qwerty
Thanks for the descriptive response. That is exactly what I am looking for. I found a new 4x8 trailer that comes with no floor or rear gate. I didn't want a gate that was going to be dragging down the wind.
Is there anyway of getting a few pics of yours? I'm going to buy that small trailer and have it somewhat setup before driving out to pick the bike up. I'm also going to try and put up some sort of rock guard in the front to protect that nice bike.
I'll be using quite a bit of your tips to set this trailer up for a nice haul cross country.
Thanks again!
Thanks for the descriptive response. That is exactly what I am looking for. I found a new 4x8 trailer that comes with no floor or rear gate. I didn't want a gate that was going to be dragging down the wind.
Is there anyway of getting a few pics of yours? I'm going to buy that small trailer and have it somewhat setup before driving out to pick the bike up. I'm also going to try and put up some sort of rock guard in the front to protect that nice bike.
I'll be using quite a bit of your tips to set this trailer up for a nice haul cross country.
Thanks again!
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KingRobb
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So what kind of boat you gonna put on this trailer you speak of?
Dyin'? Boy, he can have this little life any time he wants to. Do ya hear that? Are ya hearin' it? Come on. You're welcome to it, ol' timer. Let me know you're up there. Come on. Love me, hate me, kill me, anything. Just let me know it.
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Sorry, jmresmith, I don't have a camera. I wince when I see the prices charged for storebought chocks and such. A couple 2x4s would actually do the job. If memory serves, I paid for the angle and welding, but did all the drilling myself. I think two pieces of pressure treated plywood wpould be about $50 today. The paint would be about $12. The sand was free. I used a cheap roller and cover, then just threw them away. The roller, cover, and all the hardware wouldn't be more than about $15. Bolt a piece of plywood across the angle rail on the front of the trailer, instant gravel guard.
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving isn't for you.
trailer
Thanks again for the info. I'm going down to the tractor supply company today to measure the trailer again to come up with ideas for the rock guard. I'm just tickled to death I could find a new trailer for under $300. Just have to install a floor, come up with a ramp idea, and rock guard. I will take the advice you gave me. I am quite the welder with my stock car racing background. I am all about saving money, but don't want this beautiful bike I inherited to take a spill.
I’m looking at the carry on trailer brand. I am not sure if the one I am looking at had the side rails and the rail in the front. I will be popping a few shots of it today.
I didn’t want to take the risk of loading this bike into the back of my F150. The 6.5ft bed had me quite worried. Now I will be able to take this ride where ever I please.
I’ll keep you posted thanks!!
I’m looking at the carry on trailer brand. I am not sure if the one I am looking at had the side rails and the rail in the front. I will be popping a few shots of it today.
I didn’t want to take the risk of loading this bike into the back of my F150. The 6.5ft bed had me quite worried. Now I will be able to take this ride where ever I please.
I’ll keep you posted thanks!!
