I Need a New Chain

Message

guitar guru · Fri Mar 09, 2007 4:16 pm

Well, my chain has died: It came off the rear sprocket while I was riding down my street. I found out why: one of the links was bent out of shape-don't know how, but it is old, so that probably had something to do with it.

Anyway, so I need a new chain. The OEM chain is $400, so I'm looking at aftermarket chains. I lnow nothing about the different types of chains, so I have no idea what to get. I also don't know what kind of chain is currently on my bike, and don't know how to find out, so I need some help getting a good chain. The bike is my 1988 kawaski ninja zx600.

Any suggestions?

MotoF150 · #2 Unread post by **MotoF150** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 12:56 am

the right way to do it is to replace ur front and rear sprockets when replacing ur chain, if ur chain is worn out, then in most cases both sprockets are worn out too, and or its the worn sprockets that caused the chain to wear out, or visa-versa. $400 is way too much for any size or type of chain, dealer is ripping you off, what you need to do is find out what ur chain size and type it is, if its size 525 or 530 and what type, 'O" ring, or "X" ring, or std chain and how many links or lenght the chain is. and I would suggest to look online to find a lower price for a chain or sprockets, some places sell the chain and sprockets as a package deal, and you can change the size of both front and rear sprockets either increased speed or low end power, and after the new chain and spockets are installed make sure you keep the chain clean and well lubed, using chain wax and never over or under tighten it and ur new chain and spockets will last a long time. BTW: I would highly suggest if you do change the rear sprocket that you replace the sprocket mounting bolts and nuts and use Locktite.

logitech104 · Sat Mar 10, 2007 1:14 am

hmm moto you seem to be giving adequate advice lately.

wierd.

anyway, $400! for a new chain?? I hope you meant $40. Mine costs $6. Yes check your sprockets, if they are worn, it will wear down that new chain quicker.
should say what you need in your owners manual, then go to a different dealer like yamaha and buy the chain there.

MotoF150 · #4 Unread post by **MotoF150** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 1:48 am

I would like to add if you have the rear wheel off replacing the rear sprocket that you also replace the wheel bearings too and clean the axle off with a nylon scrub pad and very lightly lube the axle with a copper based anti-seaze compound or a good grade of grease, new wheel bearings are dirt cheap and easy to replace, but never install them with a hammer, use a press. You understand that sealed wheel bearing is small and its under a lot of stress spinning at high speeds and weight, replace the wheel bearings, I have seen too many horror stories where the outside of the bearing has spun inside the hub and ruined the hub, and the hub is very expensive to replace.

Johnj · #5 Unread post by **Johnj** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 4:20 am

MotoF150 wrote:I would like to add if you have the rear wheel off replacing the rear sprocket that you also replace the wheel bearings too and clean the axle off with a nylon scrub pad and very lightly lube the axle with a copper based anti-seaze compound or a good grade of grease, new wheel bearings are dirt cheap and easy to replace, but never install them with a hammer, use a press. You understand that sealed wheel bearing is small and its under a lot of stress spinning at high speeds and weight, replace the wheel bearings, I have seen too many horror stories where the outside of the bearing has spun inside the hub and ruined the hub, and the hub is very expensive to replace.

Wow I'm impressed. With the exception of the spelling mistake, and the run on sentences, not a bad post. See, keeping your ego in check is a good thing.

Maybe the $400.00 includes the sprockets and the labor to change it all out.

#6 Unread post by **Sev** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 6:01 am

You're looking at about $200 for an average sportbike for just the chain and sprockets. There's no reason to replace a bearing unless it's showing signs of wear. To check:

While the wheel is on the swingarm and bolted in place grab it at 3 and 9 (like a clock) and attempt to wiggle it back and forth, then up and down. Rotate and repeat. If you feel ANY movement (back and forth) replace the bearing.

Once you have the wheel off the bike stick your finger in the bearing race and spin it. If you feel ANY rough section, if it hesitates for a second or catches at all, replace it.

Like Moto said, they're very cheap and fairly easy to replace. But because they are an interference fit, it also does some damage to the wheel every time you replace them. Don't replace more then necessary, but DO NOT hesitate to replace them if something seems wrong.

Use a lithium based grease for the axle - it's waterproof and will help prevent rust, if there are any large rough/rust spots on the axle replace it.

While the wheel is off check the brake pads (wedge a piece of cardboard between them so you don't accidentally seal them shut if you press the lever.

And when you're removing the sprockets -

While the rear wheel and chain are still on, have someone stand on the brake and you can loosen the bolt on the drive sprocket. The chain will stop it from spinning, and this will prevent damage to your transmission that other methods may cause.

All in all $400 sounds a little steep, but labour is expensive. And it is about a 2 hour job to do it correctly.

PS, like Moto said, might as well replace the sprockets with the chain.
And your shop can help you pick the right chain/sprockets.

MotoF150 · #7 Unread post by **MotoF150** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 10:20 am

Mr Sev, I respectfully disagree with ur accessment about the wheel bearings. I believe more harm will happen if the wheel bearings are not replaced, I can understand the more you disturb the wheel hub by removing and installing the bearings that increases the chance of damage to the wheel hub where the OD of the bearing fits, BUT! if the bearings are removed and installed in a proper manner without using a hammer and a punch or screwdriver then you will have no problem, the proper way is using a press to both remove and install the wheel bearings. I take it that you never made a comment about my comment about replacing the rear sprocket mounting nuts and bolts when installing a new sprocket as you agree with me. Thank You

guitar guru · Sat Mar 10, 2007 10:36 am

Thanks for the advice. I'm shopping online for aftermarket chains that run $40-$100. The $400 chain was if I were to order an original manufacturer part direct from kawasaki, but that is obviously not going to happen.

#9 Unread post by **Sev** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 10:44 am

Actually, the interference fit between the bearing and the hub will cause damage no matter how you remove or install the bearing. You're pushing stainless steel that is a 2-3 thou bigger then the opening in the aluminum hub. Sadly this means that you're shaving away small bits of the hub every time you press in, or press out a bearing. Replacing that bearing every time you change the chain might seem like a good idea, but that's like replacing the tires every 3000 miles whether they're worn or not. Or replacing the piston every time you replace the rings.

A good bearing will last a very long time, and replacing it early won't make a difference. Inspect them carefully at let them go.

As for the chain mounting bolts... well the thing is that they're usually studs stuck directly into the cush-drive mount plate. Meaning they'd need to be extracted (if you're lucky they'll twist out with the proper tool) otherwise you're stuck drilling them out and then using a screw extractor on them. Better to carefully inspect and determine if they should be reused. Torque on these bolts is very high, so they're designed to take a LOT of abuse. I'd recommend leaving them in place.

Even the nuts themselves are designed to be reused. I've reused mine and never given it a second thought. The same goes with other bikes I've seen put out.

It is gratifying however to see that you're putting a little more thought and research into what you're saying Moto, though I'd appreciate you not putting words in my mouth by telling me what I do or do not agree with.

guitar guru · Sat Mar 10, 2007 11:02 am

What about this chain here: I found out my chain is a 530 o-ring 102 link.

http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/p ... 105092.asp