Fast new engine breakin or mfg's slow ?

Do you favor the fast new engine breakin over the mfg's slow method?

Yes
5
23%
No
17
77%
 
Total votes: 22

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flw
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Fast new engine breakin or mfg's slow ?

#1 Unread post by flw »

For your own new bike:

Do you believe that a fast break in (2nd, 3rd and fourth gear ran hard) is better than what most mfg's suggest which is very slow.... (Stay below xy amount of rpm's and or ab amount of speed overall?

Which ever you used, why and did you maintain your hp and still get a good piston ring seal?
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DivideOverflow
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#2 Unread post by DivideOverflow »

First of all, you are reading the manufacturer's break-in policy wrong.

You are supposed to keep the bike under a certain RPM, but you are supposed to put the bike under load while getting to those rpms! That is why many people suggest riding on hills to break in a bike. Accelerate quickly, but stop when you hit the recommended RPM.
Manufacturers' recommendations are there so you don't overrev the bike before all of the internals are fully worn in (which can cause damage).

I have broken in my new bikes with that philosophy (put the bike under load, but respect the RPM limit from the manufacturer). It seemed to work great.
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#3 Unread post by Scott58 »

What DivideOverFlow said. I've broken in several new bikes and wouldn't do it any other way.
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Sev
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#4 Unread post by Sev »

New new bike? I'd ride it up and down a hill being carefull about, but not strictly adhering to the mft regs. I'd stay close though.
Of course I'm generalizing from a single example here, but everyone does that. At least I do.

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#5 Unread post by Custom »

you should always fallow the manufacturers directions. my bike i shouldn't keep my rpms at a constent low speed
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#6 Unread post by Veda »

Hmm.. So are you supposed to ride up hills for the first 500 miles, or are you guys talking like first 20 miles?

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#7 Unread post by DivideOverflow »

Veda wrote:Hmm.. So are you supposed to ride up hills for the first 500 miles, or are you guys talking like first 20 miles?
Just vary the load for the first 500 miles. Don't go on trips where you stay a constant speed. Stop and go is actually pretty good for break in (not like sitting in traffic, but getting up to 45 or whatever, then slowing down and speeding up, and working through the gears).

If you have hills around, doing the first 50 miles on them would be an excellent way to get the job done! I normally change my oil after and filter after the first 50 miles anyway.... Then I still stay pretty close to manufacturers recommendations during the first 500 miles... but I think the first 50 are the most critical.
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#8 Unread post by storysunfolding »

You see this arguement all the time between mfg and the mototune break in method. Personally I think it falls somewhere in the middle.

The main points that everyone agrees on however is don't lug the engine, don't keep it at constant rpm and keep load on the engine. Also, try to change the oil within the first 100 miles
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#9 Unread post by big_ry_ry »

DivideOverflow wrote:First of all, you are reading the manufacturer's break-in policy wrong.

You are supposed to keep the bike under a certain RPM, but you are supposed to put the bike under load while getting to those rpms! That is why many people suggest riding on hills to break in a bike. Accelerate quickly, but stop when you hit the recommended RPM.
Manufacturers' recommendations are there so you don't overrev the bike before all of the internals are fully worn in (which can cause damage).

I have broken in my new bikes with that philosophy (put the bike under load, but respect the RPM limit from the manufacturer). It seemed to work great.
So what happens when you dont have a tach? there is no way to know what RPM you are in and not everyone is reading their owners manual wrong, mine states that you should not go over 1/3 throttle up to 600 miles then nothing over 1/2 for 600-1000 miles, nothing about a speed limit or RPM restriction

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#10 Unread post by storysunfolding »

The bikes without tachs probably do say that in the owners manual. The throttle position is probably indicative of the RPM range they want you to stay in.
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