Hi, I'm new - advice welcomed!

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blues2cruise
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Joined: Fri Apr 22, 2005 4:28 pm
Sex: Female
Years Riding: 16
My Motorcycle: 2000 Yamaha V-Star 1100
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia

#11 Unread post by blues2cruise »

:clap: Glad to hear you got your bike running.

ps.....we love getting pictures, but could you please resize them smaller next time? The large ones skew the page. Thanks.

Good luck with your class when you start it.
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Wrider
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Real Name: Ryan
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My Motorcycle: 2005 Kawasaki Z750S
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

#12 Unread post by Wrider »

Congrats on getting her running!

As for the motorcycle versus regular oil, the key ingredient difference is friction modifiers.
Car oil uses friction modifiers that makes a bike's clutch slip, since the engine and clutch are in the same bath of oil.
Have owned - 2001 Suzuki Volusia
Current bike - 2005 Kawasaki Z750S
MMI Graduation date January 9th, 2009. Factory Certifications in Suzuki and Yamaha

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flynrider
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My Motorcycle: '93 Honda Nighthawk 750
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#13 Unread post by flynrider »

It used to be easy to spot the car oil with friction modifiers. The API circle on the back of the bottle would say "energy conserving". Most common in the 10w-30 oils. Not common in the 10w-40 versions.

Unfortunately, API specs have changed in the last few years and you can no longer depend on the API circle to tell the tale. Instead of going through a major research effort, I just started buying Valvoline motorcycle oil. It's formulated for motorcycles, so you know it's free of the dreaded friction modifiers. Unlike most motorcycle specific oils, Valvoline is priced the same as car oil and is available at most generic autoparts stores.
Bikin' John
'93 Honda CB750 Nighthawk

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Kibagari
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#14 Unread post by Kibagari »

Having an old bike that had been sitting around a while, I suggest two things:

Take the MSF.

Bring the bike to a mechanic and let them look it over before you get on it and ride it around, even if you think you've fixed it. Unless you are a mechanic, in which case bring it to someone else, anyway.

My last piece of advice is this: Rubber side down, shiny side up. Remember this, practice this, and for the most part you'll be okay (until something hits your neck at 50 mph, like a giant dragonfly).
"Be still when you have nothing to say; when genuine passion moves you, say what you've got to say, and say it hot."
D. H. Lawrence (1885 - 1930)
-------------------------------
1976 Honda CB360T

TorontoBoy
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#15 Unread post by TorontoBoy »

'80s Japanese bikes were overengineered, so they last a long time. With some minimal maintenance and TLC, and you'll be golden.

You'll probably need to change the tires. Check the date on the sidewalls, and if over 5 years old, the rubber is probably hard as rock and won't grip as well. Check the chain and rear sprocket for wear as well. What's the mileage on your bike?

My most favourite bike repair site is Dan. He has an interesting sense of humour.

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Schmink
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#16 Unread post by Schmink »

Definitely take the MSF course!! They teach you everything you need to know in order to get going on the road. . .actual road experience is yet another story, but getting the basics down first is necessary!

I took the MSF course and then had a gracious enough BF that would ride with me to gain me actual road experience. . .it was comforting having another experienced rider behind me getting that road experience. . .
Schmink
2008 V-Star 1100 Custom

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