Man, this forum is so dead. i can't believe it, but HEY you have a little question...
Funny how "quick questions" can lead to so much more...
With chassis stuff I always start at the beginning, approach it linearly to begin with and keep notes and measurements, then loop back through the settings, changing one thing at a time and make sure the bike is being ridden consistently.
Looking at this bit of info,
MullenRacing35 wrote: Although the front tire is wearing to about a 1/4" from the edge.
and the fact that you've dropped the front-end 15mm and we can touch on a couple things. Really we would need info on the tires, and without knowing if the stock tires are taller than the tires you've got on the bike the change of 15mm may not be a change at all.
It helps if these things are measured before starting, but such is life, you have to work with what ya got. The tires you put on the bike are the unknown in comparison with the stockers and possibly (likely) a different height even if the numbers on the tires are IDENTICAL.
Caveat: The manufacturers have a very large amount of leeway in there labelling specifications, so a 180/55ZR17 can be a lot more like a 170/55ZR17 (or 170/60ZR17) or even close to a 190/55ZR17, etc.. The 10mm taller in overall diameter and the 15mm drop in front end (say approx 10mm vertical) would make the front end a very close height to the stock setup. Or conversely they may be 10mm shorter and thus you have something like 20mm lower front end. Like NinjaGeoff said, dropping in smaller increments is the best approach to start, just be aware of front tire clearance between the radiator and fairing bits when the suspension is compressed.
You should keep info on the tires. Model, mileage or sessions, hot and cold pressures and the weather conditions, as you may spot something in the future to assist in tuning some other problem. You didn't mention the brand and model etc, but really measuring the difference between stock and whatever is on it is the way to do this. Measure circumference and calculate the height, or measure the height.
The tire *profile* is very critical and can affect bikes a lot when at speed, especially important with the issue you describe. Even at speeds 10 seconds under the lap record, you should be able to get edge-to-edge wear. I've seen many cases of misfitted tires, AND it may be the rear tire that is too wide and thus not allowing the front contact patch to achieve adequate lean to spread out.
Are you using zip-ties around the fork tubes to measure fork travel?? It's a cheap, simple way measure fork travel. Poor man's telemetry kit! (this info may help you resolve/reduce the tail wagging issue you mention too). If the front-end doesn't compress fully or it compresses too slowly (depending primarily upon spring rate, oil, and the compression damping setting) then that force is transfered into lifting the rear wheel off the pavement - waggle waggle. Also if the pavement is bumpy and rippled it's possible that the fork is not recovering from bumps, and lightening the rebound may be required to give the fork the opportunity to recover from bumps.
Also, as far as starting with the basics: Do you know how to set the "static sag" for a base-line ride height? If not google for info, or pick up a book or magazine article.
You didnt mention if your Ohlins rear shock has adjustment for ride-height, you can always raise the rear if it does. This is an alternate way to put more rake (and the weight) on the front end.
The TL1000R never had much of a following for race use, and thus info is tougher to come by, but I'd look for specific articles or web-sites on it, because it is a much more unique bike than most. Too bad Yoshimura only used them briefly in AMASBK and Steve Crevier doesn't appear to be offering free info on that puppy at this second, but if you ever see him at a race, I'd ask him for quick advice.
Note: being that you are "new to racing and motorcycles in general" there is a steep learning curve and Jewel Hendricks wrote a great book on chassis setup...i loaned my copy to someone, and have not seen it in may years now. But if you're getting into it, then it's best to have real info. I know so many people who after years of racing still cannot setup there bike in the least. A huge loss to them, because as you hope, you can gain seconds with proper chassis "tweaking", or you can lose them with improper tweaking just as easily
anyhooo, it all can get very involved, so grab some books for basic chassis setup and scour the web for base-line suspension settings specific to your TLR1000.
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