Tool Question....torque wrench

[Jeffreyjack]

Not sure if this is the place for this question...
I am into the head of a bike engine for the first time. Have the cams back in place and now need to use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts.

I was just wondering if anyone could direct me to a brand that is accurate but not costly.

I am going into this blind....as I do much of my endeavors....like pulling my GS 550L head apart.
I wold appreciate any and all suggestions from the rest of you "experienced" bolt turners.

I have heard that the "needle" type are not that accurate and the click models are better.

Another friend said, "Just go to Sears and pick one up".

I called the auto parts store near me and they have many different types. Price ranges from 45 to 200+ dollars.

Thanks for your help.


JJ

[mswarrior]

I have owned many torque wrenches over the years and I've found that the needle type are accurate but you must watch it very very close. It's easy to over torque bolts with them. As for brand, Sears is as good as any. I've bought them all over time and things happen and they all broke eventually. Personaly I'de recomend the Click type for it's ease of use. Doesn't Sears have that lifetime warranty on there tools? If so I'de buy there.

[Gummiente]

Like mswarrior said, get the click type. It's easier to use because you don't have to watch a needle on a scale while you're torquing the bolt. I have the needle type at home and sometimes I have to get into some pretty contorted positions to be able to read it.

Whatever style you buy make sure it has the right range for your needs - not much sense in paying for one that goes up to 600lb/ft if there's nothing on the bike that needs to be torqued that high.

[oldnslo]

I would vote for the clicker. I have both Proto and Sears, and actually like the Sears better, at least in terms of ease of use. Never could understand why anybody wanted the needle type, but then my machine shop experience goes back to the sixties, when I never saw anything but clickers anywhere.

[poppygene]

I have three torque wrenches in my garage. They're all Craftsman click-type. One each in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive. Bikes use mainly the two smaller sizes. Sorry, I don't remember the respective ranges... I'd have to take a look.
Just a pointer: if you get a click type, always remember to return the dial to zero when you're done. This will help it stay calibrated. Sears will only recalibrate it once, free of charge that is. At least that's my local store's policy... yours may be different.

[macktruckturner]

the click and gauge varieties are all accurate provided you use them properly. The most inexpensive gauge readout on the shelf won't have a gauge that is easy to read though. To get a precision readout you're looking at big bucks, that probably aren't required if it isn't your profession (it was once mine).

It was mentioned to get one in the range that you require - sound advice. Being sure to return the setting to 0 is also sound advice. A torque wrench is also one of the tools in your tool box you shouldn't toss around. Be careful with it. Throwing a 3/4(or 19mm, whatever you fancy) open end wrench across the garage in a fit of anger is probably ok. Doing the same with a torque wrench is a no-go.

Anthony

[Jeffreyjack]

Thanks for the advice guys.
THe clicker type wins....the needle was cheaper but all of your comments made me spend the extra $$.
OH Boy....now to put that engine back together!!! I am so ready to ride.

Thanks again.

JJ

[mswarrior]

And please keep away from super cheap flimsy to good to be true ones. Been there and they are junk, buy from a well know store who garrantees thier products.

[oldnslo]

Ah, yes....avoid those made in China, Indonesia, Borneo, Tierra del Fuego, and Guatamala.