My service manual has a chart laid out. You measure the current clearance and cross reference the current shim size and it will tell you what size shim you should install. My problem is all but 2 of my valves have no clearance at all. According to the manual I should install the smallest size and take a reading from that.
Does anyone know of a way I can figure this out without having to buy a set of shims just to take a clearance reading. The only Kawi dealer here doesn't stock shims so I will have to wait 5 days for the test set, and another 5 days after I'm able to order the correct size. Not to mention, at 10-15 bucks apiece, i can't really afford to buy any more than the replacement ones.
checking valve clearance
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telefunkin
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crazypj
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First off, what bike/model/engine size/year? How many cylinders? Did you set it correctly to measure all of them (not possible without rotating engine at least once)
First make sure your doing it right.
If you have no money you have to use a lot of time.
You only need one shim but you'll have to fit it into each tight tappet and check clearance. I think your dealer may be ripping you of with prices but, doing it wrong can cause bent or burned valves which will be a lot more expensive
PJ
First make sure your doing it right.
If you have no money you have to use a lot of time.
You only need one shim but you'll have to fit it into each tight tappet and check clearance. I think your dealer may be ripping you of with prices but, doing it wrong can cause bent or burned valves which will be a lot more expensive
PJ
I'm not a complete idiot, but I'm working on it
There are three types of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't
There are three types of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't
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telefunkin
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- Sex: Male
- Location: Summerside PE
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crazypj
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- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2007 11:08 am
- Sex: Male
- Location: Altamonte Springs, Florida
KZ750. That uses 13mm shims, they used to be £0.85, about $1.70, (in 1985) Set TDC 1.4 and take a look at which cylinder has cam lobes out/up (either 1 or 4)
Cyl one top dead center compression, check cyl 2 exhaust, cyl 3 intake. Rotate crank 360 degrees (no 4 TDCC) check 3 ex and 2 intake.
Its a real easy engine to work on. You will have to remove cam chain tension (or tensioner) to re-fit cams.( easiest to remove cap and spring on right side before you take the cams out you can see it under the carbs) Dont waste any time or effort trying to mark cam chain or sprockets, it has to be pulled tight on front run (exhaust side) exhaust cam fitted and intake timed to it at TDC 1/4 I probably have any shims you would need, unfortunately, they are in Britain and I'm in Florida.
PJ
Cyl one top dead center compression, check cyl 2 exhaust, cyl 3 intake. Rotate crank 360 degrees (no 4 TDCC) check 3 ex and 2 intake.
Its a real easy engine to work on. You will have to remove cam chain tension (or tensioner) to re-fit cams.( easiest to remove cap and spring on right side before you take the cams out you can see it under the carbs) Dont waste any time or effort trying to mark cam chain or sprockets, it has to be pulled tight on front run (exhaust side) exhaust cam fitted and intake timed to it at TDC 1/4 I probably have any shims you would need, unfortunately, they are in Britain and I'm in Florida.
PJ
I'm not a complete idiot, but I'm working on it
There are three types of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't
There are three types of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't