clutch slipping

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Sev
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#11 Unread post by Sev »

I can tell just looking at the pictures that your plates and fibers are hooped. I can't see the basket or hub clearly enough to tell, but with the amount of heat that went into that clutch... it's possible that you'll need to replace that as well.

That does not look good to me at all.
Of course I'm generalizing from a single example here, but everyone does that. At least I do.

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#12 Unread post by mydlyfkryzis »

If the inner or outer basket has grooves where the tabs/teeth of the clutch plates ride, that would prevent all the plates from grabbing equally or fully.

You probably need ALL new plates and the baskets if they have any grooves that shouldn't be there.

A clutch plate sticking in the groove might of bent the plate just enough to shed some friction material and then the reat just went away..
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BuzZz
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#13 Unread post by BuzZz »

Breaking my own rule about responding to you....

Sev is right. You fried your new clutch with improper set-up and abused it by stunting. The first 2 plates may be the only ones showing damage, but the rest of them are likely pooched as well. The clutch basket is toast, all the new plates and springs in world will not fix it. You might be able to file some of the grooves out, but the fingers will be weakened and the clutch will always feel notchy. You probably toasted the pressure plate as well.

If you want to fix it right, replace the whole clutch. If you want to keep stunting, replace it with a Barnett clutch or some other good aftermarket clutch. It will be cheaper in the long run, but any clutch will fail sooner or later with the abuse stunting puts on it.
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Dirtytoes
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#14 Unread post by Dirtytoes »

thx for all the input guys.

and buzz, idk what rules u have against responding to me...i guess its cause of my avvy? :roll:

anyway, you're were all right. the whole clutch is toast. before, that i did NOT know which part the basket was, i ordered one off ebay for $30 ($200 oem) which was actually the outer clutch, and i bought the basket/inner for $70 with my new clutch set yesterday from the dealer...ive heard different things about barnett's but most ppl don't like em and i don't really wanna find out for myself.

NOTE: after the some of the mechs at the dealer saw my plates, they said that i should open up the oil pan and clean the pickup from the fiber shavings, and to replace the oil like 3 times every half hour, to take all that "poo poo" out...cause it would eventually get into the system and blow the motor.

...so i did that yesterday

which resulted me in doing the same did a year ago when installing an oil pickup...."broke a header stud"...again!

...off to buy an an extractor kit. :frusty:
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Sev
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#15 Unread post by Sev »

You know that a header is the exhaust right?
Of course I'm generalizing from a single example here, but everyone does that. At least I do.

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Dirtytoes
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#16 Unread post by Dirtytoes »

Sev wrote:You know that a header is the exhaust right?
ya, why?

...im confused, wadda u mean?

lol, are you saying that cause i didn't know which part the basket was? :disgust:
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#17 Unread post by Shorts »

Dirtytoes wrote:
Sev wrote:You know that a header is the exhaust right?
ya, why?

...im confused, wadda u mean?

lol, are you saying that cause i didn't know which part the basket was? :disgust:
I think Sev's asking why you'd take off your exhaust when you're doing work on the clutch.

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Dirtytoes
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#18 Unread post by Dirtytoes »

Shorts wrote:
Dirtytoes wrote:
Sev wrote:You know that a header is the exhaust right?
ya, why?

...im confused, wadda u mean?

lol, are you saying that cause i didn't know which part the basket was? :disgust:
I think Sev's asking why you'd take off your exhaust when you're doing work on the clutch.
i explained it in my last post:
NOTE: after the some of the mechs at the dealer saw my plates, they said that i should open up the oil pan and clean the pickup from the fiber shavings, and to replace the oil like 3 times every half hour, to take all that sh*t out...cause it would eventually get into the system and blow the motor
...and to get to the oil pickup, u need to take off the radiator and headers/exhaust.

here is an update:
still not having fixed the last broken header stud, i snapped not one, but two spring bolts...i was supposed to torque them to 9fp, and i usually do it in three steps....ie 3, 5, then 9.....i was doing 5fp, the first 3 spring went okay, on the forth bolt, the head snapped, and same on the 5th. and that was only 5ft...WTF?! ...faulty torque wrench?

it took me about the past hour to get those things out but i did, finally. now i juss gotta go buy extra bolts...6x28.

are they special bolts or can i just pick 'em up from home depot? (i know home depot carries em...but the material they're made of...are they special for heat/clutches?)
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Sev
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#19 Unread post by Sev »

Are you installing one bolt at a time? Or starting them all and then tightening in stages in a cross pattern?
Of course I'm generalizing from a single example here, but everyone does that. At least I do.

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#20 Unread post by Johnj »

If your buying bolts at Home Depot your properly getting grade 4 bolts. You need a hardened bolt to withstand the temperature changes better. Try to get grade 5 or above. Like Sev says snug all the bolts up, then use a crossing pattern from the inside to the outermost
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