the ignition has 3 positions..and i dont know which one i need to start it..i dont know if i get spark in position 3..i do for sure is position 2 (ive been trying to start it on position 2)
1-off
2-on (all the lights come on in this position)
3-no lights come on but the electric starter will still turn
also my kickstarter slips when i try to kickstart it....which i dont think is a huge problem since i have electric start...but im not 100% sure it wil run in this condition
anyway im close i think.... it cranks, has spark, fuel and compression
Position 1 is off
position 2 is on (run)
Position 3 is tailight on only. For parking. I would never use this as it just runs the battery down.
The kick starter turns the transmission input shaft which then turns the engine through the clutch. If the kick starter ratchet is not slipping (not usual to slip), it means the clutch is slipping. To kickstart you need to be in neutral and have the clutch released (hands off the lever). If the clutch is pulled in, the kickstarter will only turn the transmission,. not the motor.
Check your clutch adjustment is my recommendation.
If everything is in working order, then the bike SHOULD start fine with electric start. But, if your kickstarter is not engaging the engine with your hand off the clutch lever, then if could be that your clutch is shot and you won't be able to ride the bike until you fix that anyway. Also, if your battery is low or the ignition is sligtly weak, you will have some trouble with the electric start. Bikes from those times did not have very robust electrical systems. On my 79 suzuki 425 when I have trouble starting with the electric start (usually when it's cold out), I have much better luck with the kickstarter (and the headlight off).
What posthumane said is right. These bikes have a 130 watt alternator. The headlight is 37 watts, the tail about 15 watts, the ignition draws the rest with a little left over to charge the battery. Full output doesn't happen until about 5000 RPM.
These bikes will start better with the kick starter. More voltage to the ignition system.
Your clutch may be out of adjustment or bad.
If you jump start it, do not use a running car. A car battery will work fine, as long as the car isn't running. The voltage regulator is a short to ground type (Zeneer Diode). If the car is running, the car alternator will put out far more current then the curcuitry on the bike can handle. The zener diode tries to regulate the output from the car (it can't) and shorts excess volts/current to ground. The car alternator keeps putting out more volts/current to keep up. You usually smoke the regulator and/or blow the main fuse.
A car battery, stand alone, has the same voltage characteristics as the bike battery and will work fine otherwise. The extra current ability will help you get it started. If you run the electric starter more than 10-15 seconds, you will burn it up though. It gets hot quick and can't take long continuous starting sessions. You shorten the life of it everytime you do extensive cranking.
If you have fuel, spark, rotation and a little compression, it should run.
Check timing, the dual point setup can be tricky to set up properly.
i got it running today...thanks for all the help...it runs pretty good but the carbs definitely need to be balanced...anyone have any experience doing this on a cb360?...the place to hook up a manometer is a screw that has to be removed but what do i replace the screw with ? another screw with a hole through it and conect it to a tube going to a manometer?
