Total Motorcycle Community Forums

Ok, cool, thanks guys, I'm out of town visiting my dad, so I'll do it when I get back!

Before you guys change the oil on ur japanese bike I want you to stop and think about what internal parts of the engine is lubed by the oil. Motorcycle oil is different than engine oil, the most important part of the oil is how ur clutch is bathed in it, the clutch is designed to have some slippage, if it didn't slip you would be replacing the clutch every 200 miles, the wrong oil effects how the clutch works, automotive oil is the worst oil you can use in ur bike because it has anti friction and engery saving additives and the big difference in zinc additives. I see a lot of bikes with clutch problems and the biggest cause of their problems is the wrong oil, some people think its normal that all bikes clunk and learch forward when they hand the clutch in and shift it into gear, my bikes don't.

if it didn't slip you would be replacing the clutch every 200 miles

No you would be replacing your clutch every 200 miles, probably from not using the clutch to downshift. There are bikes that have dry clutches. I personally would not need to replace the clutch every 200 miles, because I personally use the clutch when I shift, maybe you should try it.

camthepyro wrote:

NorthernPete
PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 12:20 am Post subject:
Cam, When I did my oil changes, I just went to the dealership and asked them what oil to use and the filters. I dont off hand remember th oil type, but why not hit up a Honda dealer or your mechanic who fixed the bike for ya?

I'll probably go to him for the oil, and filter if he has one in stock. But I want to do it myself, I've done the work on the family cars, oil changes, transmission fluid changes, etc. And I would disgrace myself if I didn't do it on my own bike

Honestly, I watched them change the oil on my Triumph, because I hadn't worked on crotchrockets for ever. They told me how to do it as well as other routine maintence.

Lesson learned: A good shop is there when you need help with a problem you cannot handle, Not to take your money.

Honestly, I watched them change the oil on my Triumph, because I hadn't worked on crotchrockets for ever. They told me how to do it as well as other routine maintence.

Lesson learned: A good shop is there when you need help with a problem you cannot handle, Not to take your money.[/quote]

i did the same thing the first time i had my oil changed on my vtx. the local honda dealer had a spring readiness promotion so i watched as they checked the bike over. saved me some trial and error time. it's not really a pride thing, i work on and with cars every day as part of my job, and as a hobby, it's just easier to have someone who does it every day show you how the first time and save you some stress.

MotoF150 wrote:Before you guys change the oil on ur japanese bike I want you to stop and think about what internal parts of the engine is lubed by the oil. Motorcycle oil is different than engine oil, the most important part of the oil is how ur clutch is bathed in it, the clutch is designed to have some slippage, if it didn't slip you would be replacing the clutch every 200 miles, the wrong oil effects how the clutch works, automotive oil is the worst oil you can use in ur bike because it has anti friction and engery saving additives and the big difference in zinc additives. I see a lot of bikes with clutch problems and the biggest cause of their problems is the wrong oil, some people think its normal that all bikes clunk and learch forward when they hand the clutch in and shift it into gear, my bikes don't.

You have a bit of correct information strewn in with a bunch of misinformation. Our "japanese" bikes, like most Italian, German and Russian bikes, all have wet clutches. Clutches, by design, are supposed to slip when pressure is released, and grab when pressure is reapplied by the springs in the clutch assembly.

If the clutch slips constantly, you are rewarded with burned friction discs, glazed drive plates and a possibly warped clutch basket.

Automotive oils do contain a bit of anti-friction additives. The newer API standards allow a certain level of them to be included in oils without having the energy-conserving label on the donut on the back of the container. However, if you get ones under the label-required level, you should be just fine. I've seen and heard enough anectdotal evidence to prove it to me. 40,000 miles on bikes on just car oil with the original clutch? Maybe it's a fluke. The guy who has been running car oil in bikes for 20 years and only replaced his clutches after 30 or 40 thousand miles of riding? Proves it to me.

You are incorrect about zinc being one of the more troublesome additives for motorcycles. Moly, or molybendeum (I think), is the worst one for clutches. Much "slippier" than zinc. For example, Valvoline's 5W30 car oil, along with Pennzoil's, have about 161 parts per million (PPM) of molybdenum and 564 PPM of zinc. Castrol GTX's 5W30 has 50 PPM moly and 1000 PPM of zinc. Different additive packages.

misinformation from moto150?? say it aint so....

NorthernPete wrote:misinformation from moto150?? say it aint so....

In one post he admits to being clueless about maintenance, then he's trying to (incorrectly) explain the lubrication requirements of clutches and internal engine parts. What a complete tool!