Page 2 of 2

Posted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 6:17 am
by TechTMW
You still haven't confirmed that the 6-pole toggle switch has 2 separate circuits on it. In other words, are you sure all 6 poles aren't hot if you toggle right or left?

Posted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 11:54 am
by Shorts
Is there a way I can test the switch? (be gentle, I'm electronically slow) :oops:

Posted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 12:32 pm
by TechTMW
Simple, Take your micrometer, set it to test for Ohms (resistance or the OMEGA symbol Ώ .)

Put the black lead on any one post and put the red lead one by one on every other post.

When the switch is (OFF) you should get infinite resistance between posts.

When the switch is (ON Left or Right) you should only get continuity ( 0 ohms) between 3 of the other posts. If you have continuity (0 oms) between all of the posts, your switch isn't going to work.

(In other words, when you flip the switch right or left, current will go to BOTH signal lights)

I think this switch won't work, but you have to test it like this to make sure.

Posted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 1:21 pm
by Shorts
Will do, thanks.

Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:07 pm
by Shorts
Since I finally got around to this...

The original 6 pole toggle is just 2 single pole switches stacked together. Only the ground and input make the circuit, non of this multiple output.

Anyway, instead of using the original toggle, I went to a single on-off-on switch to save room in inside the housing, it was real tight in there.

I left the runners connected for the time being (please see Light Bulb Qs post). Blinkers wire in fine. Toughest thing to remember is to wire it opposite the side the toggle is at, otherwise they'd blink backwards.

Posted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 8:20 am
by roscowgo
have you thought about maybe a knee or foot switch? Maybe one of those old stopm down on it types.