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Fortunately, I have a heated garage to store my bike in, but I haven't had to winterize either of my bikes since I started riding three years ago.

The first winter after I started riding, I rebuilt the top end of my Suzuki, so there was no worries about anything. I was going to be buying a new battery in the spring, so while I did put it on a trickle charger, I wasn't overly concerned about it.

Last winter, the longest my bike sat without being ridden was 5 weeks, and that was when we had a cold/snowy snap during February and March, otherwise I rode my bike every chance I got. I'm hoping to do the same this winter. If the roads are dry and the temp is above -10C, I'll be riding.

Gotta love the members of this community, they do us all proud.

Thank you all for helping this new member out with your answers!



Mike

MotoF150 wrote:My Suzuki M50 is stored for the winter in an unheated garage, what I do is start it up once a week for about 5 mins, I keep the battery in, no charger and I remove the chain and soak it in a pan of motor oil.

Starting it up once a week for 5 min. is not a good idea. Moisture and acids are a byproduct of combustion. They are deposited in the oil every time you start it up. Moisture is normally purged from the system by riding the bike until the oil has reached normal operating temp (180 degrees or better). Water vapor then exits through the breather. If you're not going to get the oil up to operating temperature, you're better off not starting the bike at all.

If tires don't separate plies sitting for months on a dealer's rack, they won't separate plies being stored off the ground with just enough pressure to maintain their shape. I've never had a problem with tires I used on a particular racing surface, swapped the next week, then remounted a year later, either. Used tires sitting on a shelf will not spontaneously fall apart, the exception being dry rot. However, under-inflated tires sitting with weight on them WILL slowly have the reinforcing fibers in the body cut, often like someone took a razor to them. The cuts will almost always be at the bead, and where the bead rests on the flattened sidewall. This might be the ply separation you are referring to. I would not totally deflate the tires because the bead of the wheel will then be exposed to the atmosphere and rust would likely develop. I think any pressure between 5 and sidewall maximum would be good for storage. I just use low pressure because I do. If there's a real reason why I started doing that I've long since forgotten it.

Well I'm going to hijack so forgive me.

We need to get our bikes winterized and for sure, one, if not both will be stored outside in a bike barn. I read above the phrase "if the bike will be outside" in regards to emptying the carbs. What is the difference in having the bike outside vs in a cold garage? Should I/How do I drain the carbs?


I'm also concerned about blocking the bikes so they are off the tires. Neither bike has a center stand. If we do not block them, what can we expect from the tires next April? How do we go about putting them on blocks?


Our weather here, we get ALOT of snow. Last year we still had 6-12" built up on the ground in March.


What mixture should I use for the antifreeze?

Carbs usually have a drain screw on the bottom of the bowl. It usually isn't necessary to remove them completely, simply backing them out a few turns should do the trick.

I think if I had to store a bike outside, I'd leave the tank filled to the brim with fuel stabilized with SeaFoam gas treatment. It's designed for boats and has done very well for me in the past. Fill the tank, run the bike to get the SeaFoam laced fuel through the engine, shut it down and refill the tank. In the spring, the fuel will still be fresh, and the SeaFoam will soften any gunk in the fuel system. If the tank is completely full of fuel, there is little or no air inside, and thus, no condensation.

Change the oil and filter, then with the kill switch off, spin the engine over enough to pump clean oil through the system. If you have a wet sump, fill the crankcase to the top of the oil fill hole to cover more parts from air and reduce the volume of air in the crankcase, which will reduce condensation in the crankcase. Clean the air filter, and lube all fittings. Lube all cables and pivot points. Top up brake and clutch fluids. Remove the battery and take it in the house for trickle charging. If your bike has points, place a piece of flat plastic between the contacts to prevent them from corroding together.

When I block a bike, I make a stand out of 2x4s that fits under the swingarm where the rear axle goes through. I block under the front of the engine to keep the front tire off the ground. My favorite way to block a bike is to hang it. Tie-down straps hooked on each side of the swing arm at the axle and over a roof beam hold the rear wheel off the ground, and the straps up each side of the bike prevent it from tipping. Tiedown straps hooked to the handlebars or triple tree hold the front end up. Keep the tires aired at least a little.

flynrider wrote:

MotoF150 wrote:My Suzuki M50 is stored for the winter in an unheated garage, what I do is start it up once a week for about 5 mins, I keep the battery in, no charger and I remove the chain and soak it in a pan of motor oil.

Starting it up once a week for 5 min. is not a good idea. Moisture and acids are a byproduct of combustion. They are deposited in the oil every time you start it up. Moisture is normally purged from the system by riding the bike until the oil has reached normal operating temp (180 degrees or better). Water vapor then exits through the breather. If you're not going to get the oil up to operating temperature, you're better off not starting the bike at all.

Haha, not to mention the fact you'll quickly get condensation inside the cylinders themselves as the warmed air cools, which leaves wonderful little rust rings at the exact level that the cylinders sit at.

Welcome to being shown you are an idiot Moto... quit while you're ahead.

Actually, come to think of it. You don't even own a bike. You do not own a 2005 or 2006 Suzuki M50. How do I know? You just claimed to soak your chain in oil. Kindly explain to me how you managed to remove the chain from a shaft driven motorcycle

Sevulturus wrote:First things first, if you're storing it in your house remove the gas, and the battery.

Autumn and the art of motorcycle storage

By Vern Faulkner Esquimalt News

Storing a motorcycle improperly could cost hundreds of dollars.
While Victoria's mild climate allows most bikers the luxury of riding 12 months a year, many opt to park their two-wheeled steeds during the winter months.
Not everyone does so properly, according to Action Motorcycles' senior mechanic Carl Gorman.
"It's not uncommon for a motorbike to come in here and leave with a $500 bill because it was simply parked and the owner walked away," he said.
Gorman, a veteran with 26 years experience to his name, cites the fuel system as the most critical element to consider when storing a bike.
"A lot of people know fuel goes bad, so they empty their gas tank: which is the worst thing you can do," he says.
An empty fuel tank allows often-moist air to corrode the inside of the tank - often to devastating end.
On the other hand, the bike's carburetor should be drained of all fuel. Over time, fuel tends to thicken. If left inside the very narrow jets of a motorcycle carburetor, gas will slowly turn to gel, clogging the jets and necessitating what for some bikes is a very expensive repair.
"Store the bike with the gas tank full and the carburetor empty," Gorman advises.
The carburetors on some bikes can be difficult to access, however. In those cases, Gorman advises a liquid fuel additive specifically designed for bike storage.
"There's mixed results - some work better than others."
Batteries also tend to be an overlooked item. Gorman suggests hooking up a trickle charger or a specially designed battery monitor for an over-wintering bike. Simply touching up the charge with a standard charger once a month will suffice, he notes.
Another simple tip can save expensive repairs - if not prevent complete loss of the engine. In Victoria winters, moist air can easily move through the exhaust system and enter the combustion chamber of the engine - bringing with it rust.
On old bikes, the solution used to be a simple one: pour a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder through the spark plug hole, then turn the engine over without the spark plugs connected.
Now, new high-tech spark plugs can easily get fouled with such a move.
Gorman offers a defense: simply close off the mufflers - a rag will do.
Another tip: leave only new oil in the bike.
"It's not good to let the bike sit with old oil," he said. "When oil is older, it gets a lot of acidic build-up."
Gorman also cautions against draping a bike with a cheap tarp, since condensation can form under the tarp and trigger rust. He suggests either a specially designed motorbike tarp or a set-up where air can move under a waterproof shelter.

Media Weasel wrote:

Sevulturus wrote:First things first, if you're storing it in your house remove the gas, and the battery.

Autumn and the art of motorcycle storage

By Vern Faulkner Esquimalt News

Storing a motorcycle improperly could cost hundreds of dollars.
While Victoria's mild climate allows most bikers the luxury of riding 12 months a year, many opt to park their two-wheeled steeds during the winter months.
Not everyone does so properly, according to Action Motorcycles' senior mechanic Carl Gorman.
"It's not uncommon for a motorbike to come in here and leave with a $500 bill because it was simply parked and the owner walked away," he said.
Gorman, a veteran with 26 years experience to his name, cites the fuel system as the most critical element to consider when storing a bike.
"A lot of people know fuel goes bad, so they empty their gas tank: which is the worst thing you can do," he says.
An empty fuel tank allows often-moist air to corrode the inside of the tank - often to devastating end.
On the other hand, the bike's carburetor should be drained of all fuel. Over time, fuel tends to thicken. If left inside the very narrow jets of a motorcycle carburetor, gas will slowly turn to gel, clogging the jets and necessitating what for some bikes is a very expensive repair.
"Store the bike with the gas tank full and the carburetor empty," Gorman advises.
The carburetors on some bikes can be difficult to access, however. In those cases, Gorman advises a liquid fuel additive specifically designed for bike storage.
"There's mixed results - some work better than others."
Batteries also tend to be an overlooked item. Gorman suggests hooking up a trickle charger or a specially designed battery monitor for an over-wintering bike. Simply touching up the charge with a standard charger once a month will suffice, he notes.
Another simple tip can save expensive repairs - if not prevent complete loss of the engine. In Victoria winters, moist air can easily move through the exhaust system and enter the combustion chamber of the engine - bringing with it rust.
On old bikes, the solution used to be a simple one: pour a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder through the spark plug hole, then turn the engine over without the spark plugs connected.
Now, new high-tech spark plugs can easily get fouled with such a move.
Gorman offers a defense: simply close off the mufflers - a rag will do.
Another tip: leave only new oil in the bike.
"It's not good to let the bike sit with old oil," he said. "When oil is older, it gets a lot of acidic build-up."
Gorman also cautions against draping a bike with a cheap tarp, since condensation can form under the tarp and trigger rust. He suggests either a specially designed motorbike tarp or a set-up where air can move under a waterproof shelter.

So, you would rather store an open container of gasoline inside your house?

The issue with gas and winterization comes when you are storing it in a cool area (ie unheated garage) the temperature difference between the metal of the tank, and the air will cause condensation to form on the inside of the tank, which quickly leads to rust problems.

However, if you are storing it in the house (which is what I was talking about). Get all the fuel you can out of the tank in case of leaks or whatever. In the warm environment you should not have to worry about condensation on the inside of the tank. How often do you find condensation inside your computer case? Or in your metal flour tin?

I would never store an empty, used gas tank inside a house. Even an empty tank is an explosion hazard that can be triggered by a static electrical spark, very common in a heated, low humidity environment.