Downshift = Rattle/Click

[Skel3tor1]

Alright, The most recent posts here are making me feel heaps better

I put the bike on it's sidestand and grabbed a tape measure.

I pulled the tape out of the tape measure until it hit the chain and then made a note of how much tape had been extracted. Then I repositioned the tape measure and pulled it up while under the chain.

I got about 1.5" til the chain couldn't go up anymore. I'm not sure how much pressure you wanted when pulling up but that 1.5" is the max I could push it upwards. It's also in the middle of the chain like my service manual has pictured for measuring the slack and the amount of slack I should have is 5/8" - 1".

Looks like I need to tighten the chain and I am going to hold off on doing this for a few days just to see the responses here to make sure I it measured correctly.

Quick question: Below is a picture from my Clymer's service manual. Arrow C (the date covers up the C) shows the threads of a screw that needs adjusted to correct the slack. I am going to assume that by loosening up A & B, that I will be able to adjust the threads on that screw (C) by using my fingers. Also, which direction would I want to adjust this so that it tightens up the chain? Would it be inwards? I'd like to avoid experimenting if at all possible.



Thanks again for all your opinions and helping me out here. My dad is more of the mechanical guru and he was PCS'd out to Arizona for 2 years. For those who may be wondering, he's a Major in the Army and is a Nurse Practioner. So, for the "Mechanically Challenged" do it yourselfer, you guys are a big help. Thanks again!

[Sev]

It shouldn't be HARD pressure to press it up. It's like....lifting a coffee pot. One finger, lift it until it starts to resist more then the weight of the chain should. Does that make sense? Like the chain is pretty heavy, so it'll push down on your finger quite a bit, but after a point you're just stretching the chain and it's REALLY tough to push it up.

If you did it like that then 1.5" is WAY to much.

When I do a chain slack adjustment what I do first is get all the right sized wrenches layed out. Then check to see if it should be on the sidestand or with the swing arm in the air (you said sidestand).

Then you:

loosen off the axle nut "A"- big nut on the axle

loosen off the locknuts on the swingarm adjusters (this is the lock right next to the plate) on both sides "B"

Turn the adjuster bolt to move the rear tire back a little ways (do this on both sides EQUAL AMOUNTS!!!!!!!!!) Use the guide lines on the swing arm to make sure it's equal. Count from the front and the back... you'll destroy your chain/sprockets otherwise. You can measure from the center of the swingarm pivot to the center of the wheel axle if you want. But I trust the lines.

Check the slack

Adjust if necessary

Check the slack again

Check it once more, just to be sure.

Okay, holding the adjustment bolt in place tighten down the lock nut B on both sides

Check your adjustment again

Finally torque your axle nut "A" into place. And install the cotter pin if necessary

Check your adjustment once more

Now, get the bike off the side stand, sit on it, and put as much of your weight as possible on the bike. Have someone measure the slack, you should have at least 1/4" of freeplay with your weight on it.

If you don't have this, loosen everything off and adjust.

By way of example, my bike calls for 30-40mm of freeplay, but because I'm a featherweight when the chain is correctly adjusted for me it should be at 28mm of freeplay otherwise it's all sloppy. So it never hurts to sit on the bike and check it.


Long drawn out and ana? Yes. Worth it? Probably.

Don't forget to lube the chain while you're in there.