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Both chemically and physically. The needles were mega-nasty so I had to whip out some friggin' scotchbrite to clean them off. I think a rebuild kit is in order.

How did you clean out the jets? All those tiny passages collect gum/build-up/particulants very easiely. And they are made of brass, so any wire or other poker you shove through them should be brass or softer, like nylon bristle. Small scratches can have big effects on jets.

A rebuild is mostly cleaning and new gaskets. Unless some other problem shows itself, like a torn diaphram or hopelessly damaged jets. Then you have to buy those items seperately.

Before spending big bucks, it might be a good idea to verify consistant spark at both cylinders, but it still smells like a wonky carb from here.

They were cleaned out using a metric shitload of highly compressed air. I highly doubt the carb is the problem at this point, since I'm definitely getting fuel to the cylinder.

I'm getting some new plugs and wires so we'll see what happens later tonight.

If you're still having problems with your Virago, I have a couple more suggestions for you to try. First, in a car, there is a ballast resistor (sometimes called a primary resistor) that prevents the distributor from frying itself. When the starter is pressed, the resistor is bypassed because the battery doesn't have enough juice to power the starter as well as the ignition system. If this same system is on your motorcycle, then by only shorting the solenoid contacts, you're not causing the resistor bypass to activate. You can try your current method of trying to start your Virago and press the starter switch at the same time.

Second, you say you're getting spark, but is it coming at the right time? Maybe the previous owner switched the spark plug wires so now the sparks are coming in the wrong order. It might be worth checking.

Finally, you said the starter switch dims the lights, but nothing happens. Maybe there are some safety switches activating that is preventing the starter from engaging. On my Virago 250, there is a kickstand safety switch and a clutch safety switch, both of which will not allow starting when the gear is not in neutral. If the neutral switch is faulty, then it won't allow you to start. Try putting the gear in neutral, pulling in the clutch, and kicking up the kickstand before trying to start it. If you have a way to check the functionality of those safety switches, that would be even better.

Oh, by the way, I'm new to motorcycles, so I likely don't know what I'm talking about. I'm only a weekend cager wrench monkey.

Good luck!

We've had a breakthrough of sorts. If you shove a hand over each carb and fire it up... IT RUNS.

Move your hands and it dies.

So there's something wrong with the idle air control or some "poo poo". Basically what it means is that I get to sit on my "O Ring" while the carb gets torn down again.

I'm really really ready to ride this damn thing.

what the heck? kinda sounds like your getting an air leak making the bike run super lean...

So you know, there's probably nothing wrong with your headlight.

These bikes' headlights don't turn on until after they start. They won't be on when you just turn the key or are cranking. So there's a good chance there's nothing wrong with the headlight. (Been there checked all the wiring for that)
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Death & Dying Forum

logitech104 wrote:what the heck? kinda sounds like your getting an air leak making the bike run super lean...

Whatever the case... SOMETHING isn't balanced right. At least I know not that it's just a wonky air/fuel mixture and not something impossible to fix.

honda750 wrote:So you know, there's probably nothing wrong with your headlight.

These bikes' headlights don't turn on until after they start. They won't be on when you just turn the key or are cranking. So there's a good chance there's nothing wrong with the headlight. (Been there checked all the wiring for that)

It's working now. It wasn't, but then it did... friggin' electrical.