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yoippari
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#11 Unread post by yoippari »

I did an edit on my first post but while editing the first couple of people posted.

Is anyone familiar with Wesco boots? http://www.westcoastshoe.com/wesco/

They are expensive but the user testimonies are high praise. Highliners daily work boots needing to be rebuilt after 4 years is a good run.

I got an insurance quote without a vin number at 35/mo or something like $250/year for a 06 vigaro 250 (it isn't 05, its an 06). Does this sound competative?
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Ian522
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#12 Unread post by Ian522 »

Alot of HJC helmets are pretty eyeglass-friendly. I have the HJC CL-15 (full face, non-flip up, snell approved, about $150) and I can slide my glasses on and off pretty easily. But definitely "try before you buy" when it comes to helmets, as head shapes and helmet fit varies greatly from person to person.

Old bikes are great when it comes to insurance(dirt cheap). Plus I think 70's and 80's bikes have a huge coolness factor. However its kind of a crap shoot when shopping for one. Look for one with low miles in great condition and with a good maintenance history. Avoid bikes that have been sitting or been in storage for long periods as they usually require a good deal of work to get going again. Parts for older bikes can be expensive which is another thing to consider if you are looking at a bike that "needs work."

That insurance quote sounds decent. The Virago 250 is a great starter bike.
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#13 Unread post by Scoutmedic »

The Team Oregon training is top of the line from what I understand (maybe even what the msf was based on?).

Definitely follow the Helmet Fit Guideline. Currently, I have a Vega Altura helmet ($65), Cortech Gx-Air modular jacket ($160), Brosh riding jeans for warmer weather ($70), Himalaya overpant for colder weather ($75), HD riding boots ($90) and a variety of gloves ($15 to $30). You can see some of the gear I wear in these pictures

Good Luck, Have Fun and Stay Safe!
yoippari
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#14 Unread post by yoippari »

BTW, What is a good color to help be visible while on a black motorcycle?

Also, a lot of the really protective gear is very "racing style". This would be the vehicle that I go to work on. Are the suits easy to get in/out of and can be stowed away easily or would I need to allow an extra 10 minutes and pack saddlebags and a tail bag to store it in?
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#15 Unread post by jlmay »

I believe I read the closer the color is to white on the color scale, the better visibility; with white being the best.

and they sell reflective yellow vests too.
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#16 Unread post by yoippari »

I realize that I'm doing a lot of posts my first day but I'm getting a sort of information overload. Too much reading and planning tends to do that too me.

After some reading and searching I found this is right here in town. I used to drive by it a few times a day for work and never noticed it before a google search.

The wolf looks nice but I can't find a lot of information on them, at least not the new ones. I know new and shiny is not a friend to noobs and I probably shouldn't even be thinking of new and it is a "little" out of my price range. I'm looking to see if there are any used ones for sale for less than 5k but having absolutely no luck. I'm not finding any used wolfs for sale at all, ebay, cycletrader, google, nowhere. Just one of those things to add to the wish list.

I've found a couple of other local used bikes online. A 98 vstar 650 and a 96 vulcan 500. Acording to kbb the vstar is overpriced and the vulcan is about right but still high. How much wiggle room is there with used bikes at dealers?

I hope to get a summer job in alaska this year and want to ride up there so I would likely need a trailor as saddle bags probably won't be enough. That is part of why I'm looking at 600s, I don't want a bike that I will have to sell or leave behind that soon. Of course I'm just assuming a 250 won't be able to haul a trailor and that a 600 will, I havn't got that far yet.
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#17 Unread post by flynrider »

yoippari wrote:My glasses are just metal frame eyeglasses and I don't see replacing them any time soon. I'm near sighted so I wear them all the time. They will definetly affect which helmet I choose.
In my opinion, you're really overthinking this helmet/glasses thing. I've been wearing both metal framed glasses and full face helmets for about 28 yrs. It's never been a problem.

1. Take off glasses.
2. Put on helmet.
3. Put on glasses throught the front opening.
4. Lower the faceshield.

Haven't worn a helmet yet that the above didn't work on. Since you (hopefully) will be trying on helmets before you buy, you can try it out.
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#18 Unread post by Wordherder »

yoippari - I wear glasses too, and I wanted a full helmet. Ended up with a Nolan modular and it works great. The front just clicks down over your face, no adjustment needed. Cost ~$150 but my head is worth at least that much, despite what my boss says. Has a good anti-fog system, too, lots of air vents and a sun-shade.

I wear a Joe Rocket jacket with kevlar reinforcements in the elbows, shoulders and spine -- $150.

Gloves with knuckle armor, $25.

Looking into Draggin' Jeans with kevlar in the knees and hips, looks to be around $100. (If anyone has experience with those, or can recommend better, please do so!)

I also wear leather high-top work shoes, but am looking for something a bit more substantial.
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yoippari
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#19 Unread post by yoippari »

The glasses interfering with the full face helmet was just an assumption. I'll do the whole wear it for 10 minutes at the shop thing, and I'll probably get it before taking the course.

Something I should proably know before deciding to ride to alaska after one month of riding experiance is what the alcan highway is like in may and september. Is it rideable for newbs? or will I be better off waiting until the end of summer after I return.
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#20 Unread post by Flting Duck »

Ther AlCan highway is just another road - nothing technically exceptional about it aside from the views and endless turns. (It's a GREAT ride.)

That said, there are two seasons up there: winter and road construction. As a newb, your biggest challenge will be riding on long stretches of gravel where roadwork is being done. Dry, riding gravel will be a bit unnerving for you. Wet, it can be slick and you might even go down - but you'll be going relatively slow anyhow so you probably wouldn't kill or cripple yourself.

The key to riding on gravel is to avoid using your front brake very hard and use your rear brake gently as well. If you can stay relaxed and keep up a decent pace (but not fast) on gravel, you'll probably be OK. The best part will be when some pickup comes flying the other way and showers you with gravel.

Chances are that you will encounter some rain (or LOTS) if you ride up there in May and return in September. The only reason I mention this (aside from the gravel issue) is that unless you have the right gear for wet riding, you will be miserable.

Personally, I wouldn't recommend riding up there with one month of riding epxerience but if you're a hearty soul you can do it.

Shipping your stuff to AK and back will cost a lot less than a trailer.
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