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Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2009 10:07 am
by Wrider
There should either be a fuel or air screw on the carb. If it's on the engine side of the carb then it's a fuel screw, and the more you turn it out the more fuel the cylinder will get. If it's on the air-box side of the carb, the more you turn it out the leaner it will run. Most run best at about 2.5 turns out.
Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 7:07 am
by MrShake
Thats probably a pilot only adjustment though... often called the pilot air screw. As soon as your pull that throttle, the main jets take over and that adjustment won't help much.
You could try shimming the slide needle, that would richen the mix a bit. Probably need brass flat washers of various thicknesses, a hobby shop that does RC cars or model trains might have what you need.
Posted: Mon May 18, 2009 11:05 am
by MannyMangopit
Hi folks, my situation may be relevant
I just opened the carbs on my recently-acquired 360 and found what may be a source of the worst fuel mileage i can imagine on a two-wheeled lump of metal this small.
I haven't gotten better than 20mpg. Left cylinder runs like crap and misses a lot, the bike has trouble going 45mph, and it bogs really badly between 5,000-6,000 and between 7,000-8,000 rpm (approx. from memory)
What i found: The carbs weren't too dirty, but the main jets were 100 on the left and 110 on the right. According to Clymer they're meant to be 68s.
Did one of the two (or more?) previous owners take this low-mileage baby and try to hop it up? Any other tell-tale signs? If they did, it didn't work, or isn't, anyhow. From reading a lot of threads on other sites i get the idea the points and ignition timing will need to be dealt with to really isolate what's going on. Lately Chevre hasn't even started, though i charged the battery successfully.
Is this jetting safe? What would have to be done to the pipes/intake to balance the flow? I'm currently planning to set it back to stock instead.