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I always adjust to the loose end of the spec (30mm on my bike too) regardless of the load. It's loose enough that the chain won't tighten up like a banjo string when the suspension is compressed, yet not so loose that there's any unwanted chain movement. Over the years I noticed that keeping it at the loose end of the spec generally reduced wear on the chain/sprockets and the chain didn't need to be adjusted nearly as much. My last chain went 24K miles with only 3 adjustments. The sprocket teeth showed very little wear at replacement.

HYPERR wrote:

pilot_greg wrote:Well, I guess its time for me to readjust the thing again... Since its loose, I'll need to tighten it up so that the sidestand chain play is 20mm-30mm. Of course I'm going to have to call the shop to at least get their impression. Maybe because I'm heavier than average, taking my weight into account is a good idea?

I don't understand what you still need to ask the shop.

The answer in theory is yes and in practicality and real world term, a huge NO.

If one is indeed that ana, yes the proper procedure is to have the rider and the passenger get on the bike, set the proper sag by adjusting the front and rear preload, then adjust the chain for the proper tension. And if one is ana enough to do that, they will have to reverse the procedure all over again when going back to solo.

I don't know anyone that ana and quite frankly they would probably wear out the adjusting nuts from the constant adjustments.

Well I always back up anything I hear or read with questions to at least one or two shops, if only just to cover my bases. The fact is that I weight a good amount above the "average" rider weight, so there might be different procedures when setting up for me as opposed to normal circumstances. In the end the no-weight method was backed up by two different mechanics, so when I get home tonight, that's the adjustment I'll be making.

Also, its not because I'm ana. Its because I've been told one way of doing things for a long time by several people who I think know what they are talking about, so if I'm going to change my way of doing things, I want to be sure...

If you weigh that much you might want to consider looking into a suspension upgrade so this, and other issues, don't create an adverse effect on your riding.

Actually- a new suspension is the first thing I buy for any of my bikes to make sure it's as good as I can go.

I highly recommend the suspension advice. In fact none of the bike manuals I have suggest adjusting the chain for two up riding and instead tells you to adjust the suspension accordingly. Then there's also the maximum weight the bike can handle - weight of the bike = how much weight you can carry including yourself. If you are a heavy person and adding a passenger you might bottom out the stock suspension and cause handling issues. Just make sure the chain is in spec per the manual and you should be fine on that aspect.

A lot of bikes could go with a suspension upgrade whether your a heavy guy or not.

storysunfolding wrote:
Actually- a new suspension is the first thing I buy for any of my bikes to make sure it's as good as I can go.

You do a suspension upgrade on all your bikes?

Yeah. Some bikes it's just a spring change, others it's the whole nine yards. Cartridge emulators up front, and springs up front with a penske shock in the rear for the Strom

Thank god for Kawasaki's Anti-dive forks and adjustable shocks front and rear with gas chargers. too bad they don't offer them any more.

I remember my Vulcan was bouncing around like a pogo stick. the cheapest option was to add heavier fork oil, next up would've been springs. the Rear shocks on the Vulcan definitely needed to go, those things bottomed out when laden with luggage.