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I'm not getting catty, your getting defensive. Nobody said anything negative about your answering the question, I just corrected incorrect info. You took it personally. So better stop reading here....

Oiled filters and paper filters are two entirely different animals, and work via different filteration methods. Any oiled filter has much larger passages through it for the air to pass through. It is the oil that grabs the and traps the dirt particles as the air is forced to twist and turn inside the filter media as it passes through the filter. Without oil it is nothing but a fairly course strainer.

Paper filters work strictly by passing dirty air through very much smaller passages in the filter. They are the least effective both for cleaning the air and for the amount of air they pass through. They are the easiest to deal with for Joe Average and that's why they are found most often in lower output vehicles like cages and playbikes.

Just so you know, 'Catty' would look something like this....

So how is it that someone who has been riding dirtbikes 'for years' has never encountered a foam filter before? It's not like they put it beside the kill switch.....

Actually you did say something negative about my answer. yes, i was misinformed about oils on the filter. and for the record, i knew about foam filters, just not that there was a special oil for them. so basically...thats all the misinformation i had displayed. by you referring to it as 'lots', thats an exaggeration of quantity. it was one thing. and arguably, yes, it can be something that can lead to serious engine damage...in which case it could be considered 'lots too much' in reference to quality, not quantity. your responses were somewhat offensive (which is why i got defensive..happens to most people) and quite frankly, some comments were uncalled for. for example, giving me an example of your definition of catty...uncalled for. when i said 'lots' seemed a tad exaggerated, you said it was understated, if anything....uncalled for. i tried playing it all out by taking it with a grain of salt, thats why i simply put my first response to your message as " 'lots' seems a tad exaggerated. " but you pursued to what seemed to me as if you were explicitly trying to belittle me.

another point to be made, i never said foam filters DONT need oil...i said im pretty sure they dont. while that does leave implication of assuredness, it does not qualify as fact.

ive yet to leave any remarks that are in any way insulting to anyone, and im actually quite disappointed that im getting this kind of attitude from a moderator. i would love to just let bygones be bygones...theres no sense in arguing about this, i just want everything clarified. i hope this response finds you forming a reasonable state of mind to this entire matter.

Sorry your so determined to be insulted. I pursured it to clarify the incorrect information, if you find that belittling, again, I'm sorry, but that's not going to change. I included my admitedly catty statement to attempt to show you what insulting can look like. It can look a lot more insulting too, but it won't because despite what you think, I am not trying to single you out for ridcule. Just to get the correct info out there for poor eugeart, who asked a legitimate question. If I correct an incorrect statement, and it happens to be you who made it, it is not a personal attack on you, so please don't take it as such. It is what it apears to be, an attempt to get the right info out there. I don't get offended when I am corrected on an incorrect statement I make, it happens. It's no big deal. We can consider this whole affair closed now?

Anyways, eugeart, K&N filter oil is available at any parts store, bike shop, ect that sells K&N's. That includes Canadian Tire and Walmart around here. It is a specific oil made for those filters only, and the only oil that those filters will work properly with. It comes in a spray can so it's easy to put on and dyed red so you can see it on the filter. A clean K&N filter is white before oiling, if it's not white before you oil it, it's not clean. They must be cleaned with water and detergent, not solvent, then allowed to dry completely before oiling. It can take a day or even two before it's dry.

Wheww! Wow! 'Kay guys. Just blog stuff as usual.

I found that Castrol makes a foam filter oil and another... ah Amsoil makes one too. The Castrol seems to be around $9 a litre and maybe I'll have to get it special ordered unless its on the shelf which I doubt. The K&N I have but no cloth filter.

This brings to mind of which type to use or at all. I think I can get a kit with four foam filters from the dreaded JC Whitney for $45 to attach directly to the carbs. K&N seems to have less information as to which filter(s) I should get. One to just replace the stock-type looks as if it'll cost about $70. To get four to attach to the carbs and remove part of the original ducting looks as if it would cost me $160-200! For air filters! I admit they will look tougher/sportier yet what will they be worth that expense?

So I've seen on the web briefly, and I think it may have been a little biased, that the gauze are better than the foam. But the expense! And really, how does they perform vs. each other? Now I saw mentioned that foam was used in MX. It is dry and very dusty here in Texas most of the time so would foam be a better choice for the south with the dust and pollen?

I removed the filter briefly to see if the engine would run at idle (in case it was too sensitive a setup) and it seemed to run fine if a little throatier sounding. Of course that means nothing when you twist the throttle and work your way up through the gears. Really, that would be a better test but I'm leary of running the engine down the road with no filter even for just a bit.

Now, you may be wondering why I would tinker with something that ain't broke.
1. I've never been a fan of stock air intakes or filters and think they are designed as too restrictive.
2. Looks. I think the exposed filters looks better for a naked bike such as I have. The aesthetics of a motorcycle come in just under performance and rideability in my opinion.
3. This may seem silly, but there is barely enough room to store, and this is no exageration, something the size of an average fist under the seat at the rear behind the tail-light. The airbox is spacious and would be a perfect storage space for various things such as tools.

So, what to do? Is it ill advised to mess with the factory design? Foam or K&N style? And if I do choose- what route to go so I won't wreck the motor?

Is there a website or dealer that offers aftermarket stuff for older bikes? I've really had a hard time finding references to stuff on the web for my model (83 honda CBX 550) except in UK and Europe and those are kinda vague.

I have never used the foam pod-type filters, but have heard and read that they don't last as long as K&N's, as well as complaints that the bike ran worse with the foam ones than the K&N's, but I suspect some sourgrapes/snobbery related to that . K&N make a proven filter that flows well and lasts forever. Off brand cloth/gauze filters are anybodys guess...

Generally the pod-type filters need richer jetting to work right, and many bikes lose some ridability but gain a litte top end punch. There is alot of very clever engineering behind even a crappy airbox to smooth out powerflow. Tearing that all out and putting pods on throws all that out the window. But that's pretty generally, every bike is different, I don't know how a CBX responds to them.

Also most bikes require the airbox to be removed to fit pod filters. Or at least heavily carved up. Not sure what that will do for the storage space.

A K&N stock replacement filter is probably the best gain for the least money in most cases.

I'll chime in here - (alot of this is going in depth to what Buzz posted, so if you want the short version, stick with his post )

First, we've established that stock paper air filters are probably the worst type of air filter for a performance related machine. They are the most restrictive in terms of airflow.

So, on to the foam versus gauze. Foam pores are larger than gauze pores - therefore they require a stickier nasty oil (Bel-Ray (i think) makes an inexpensive spray on oil which should be available at any motorcycle shop) I use foam Pod-type filters on my xj650 and have noticed a slight performance increase under optimal conditions (But I'll get back to that later)

Because of the sticky nature of the foam oil it traps - ALOT of dirt. So much so in fact that when these filters start to get dirty they will flow less air. The longer the filter goes without a washing and oil change, the less air is going to get into your engine. The gauze type filters are better at filtering dirt than the foam, first of all because the gauze has smaller pores and second of all because the oil is lighter. Because of the nature of the oil and the gauze, this filter delivers optimal airflow even when dirty. It takes ALOT to get a gauze air filter clogged.

Basically, IN YOUR CONDITIONS (TEXAS) I would recommend the Gauze filter because I lived in San Angelo for a while - I KNOW how much dirt is out there. Foam filter types will require much more maintenance to maintain optimal air flow.

Now on to the Stock setup versus Pod setup - The stock airbox amy seem restrictive, but there is a reason for this. The size and shapes of the intakes add alot to your bike's torque characteristics. They don't design these things on a whim. People take the airbox off when they want to gain more from the top end of their bikes - at a loss to their torque curve. (note the torque curve is probably more important for daily street riding than having a high horsepower output) Another function of the airbox is to protect the intakes from variations in air speeds - to provide a constant and ready stream of air into your engine. If you ride on a windy day with pod filters, there is a good possibility that the airflow to your engine will not be constant. This isn't a HUGE consideration, but nonetheless it is a legitimate concern.

Based on the points that you made, I would have to recommend that you go with a K&N or similar gauze stock replacement type air filter. I know that asthetics are important to you, but you don't have much power (read, TORQUE) to play around with. If you absolutely must have the pods, go for it, but as you may not be pleased with the results, I would recommend that you get the cheaper foam ones. Also keep in mind that pod type air filters flow so much more air that you may need to rejet your carburettors to prevent the engine from running too lean. I would also suggest that you find a shop with a dynamometer, or at least an exhaust gas analyzer and compare it to stock specifications so that when you place the air filters you can be sure that you are not leaning out the engine too much.

One last thought - engines that are just a little too lean run like a dream on the top end ... until the pistons gall and sieze from too much heat and that goes double for an air cooled engine.

Choose wisely Grasshopper