Total Motorcycle Community Forums

Scott58 wrote:It's good practice to keep your bike in the proper gear for the speed your going. If you suddenly find you need to get "tactical" to avoid someone being stupid it isn't a good idea to be in 5th or 6th gear going 20mph.

I agree completely. You should never be coasting on a bike or in a car.

What makes a person comfortable doing something is continued practice.

I agree with the engine-breakers. I believe they teach engine breaking in the msf too. I always shift all the way down to first - it's easy as pie and I like having the control. I think it's safer and I do not think it places unnecessary wear on the engine. You obviously don't want to skip all the way down to first or second from fifth as you'll risk locking up the back wheel and dumping. If you aren't sure you're in the right gear just let the clutch out reeealll slow and the engine will tell you if you're going too fast for that gear. You can always shift up to the next gear.

Joe Mc wrote:

Scott58 wrote:It's good practice to keep your bike in the proper gear for the speed your going. If you suddenly find you need to get "tactical" to avoid someone being stupid it isn't a good idea to be in 5th or 6th gear going 20mph.

I agree completely. You should never be coasting on a bike or in a car.

I also agree. Practice practice practice. Get use to where the power is for a given gear. You can keep your bike in the best power band by shifting up and down to meet your ground speed. Engine braking will also increase brake life but some will say you will wear out your clutch faster. I don't agree - the clutch on a bike is meant to slide more - it can take this treatment much better than a car clutch.

I always leave it in gear braking, but don't neccessarily downshift. Usually it's not needed really. I usually will downshift to second gear a lot, but sometimes might leave it in third even. I just don't like the feel of the brakes being the only thing slowing you down.

Thanks, everyone!


Yeah, that's pretty much what I was thinking as well. I feel much more comfortable on a bike downshifting. I just wanted to make sure that what I was doing is normal, since my friend supposedly doesn't ride that way.

I'm sure I'll get better at it with practice... I wish my bike had a tach, though ...

But listening to the engine is good enough for now... I guess you don't really need a tach once you get a good feel for your the way your bike is geared...

Down shifting/engine braking can be bad for cars and bikes if you don't know what you're doing. The trick is (cars and bikes both) clutch, downshift, rev up, ease out clutch **. Cause if you're in 3rd gear, clutch in with out revving, the motor slows down, but since the trans is attached to the drive wheel, it's moving at a higher rpm. and letting the clutch out when there's a big differance in engine and trans speeds is rough on the clutch and synchros. Ever been in a standard transmission car and the driver downshifts and there's a noticeable jerk? that's from (mainly) i big differance in RPMs from the two devices.

It's a good thing to practice, and if you do down shift already and don't match the revs, try it. Your transmission will love you for it (car OR bike).

** When i say rev up, i mean rev it and ease off the throttle too. You don't want to be revved too high by accident and let the clutch out. Could result in sudden lifting of the front and other bad stuff.

MSF will teach you panic stops.

From a start speed of 12-20 mph.

Basically, if you're panicking at a higher speed, you've already made the mistake.

The downshifting part of it is not for engine braking, it's to get you into first in case the danger in front of you decreases but danger from the side or rear increases and you need to get the f-bomb out of there.

GeoffXR200R wrote:Down shifting/engine braking can be bad for cars and bikes if you don't know what you're doing. The trick is (cars and bikes both) clutch, downshift, rev up, ease out clutch **. Cause if you're in 3rd gear, clutch in with out revving, the motor slows down, but since the trans is attached to the drive wheel, it's moving at a higher rpm. and letting the clutch out when there's a big differance in engine and trans speeds is rough on the clutch and synchros. Ever been in a standard transmission car and the driver downshifts and there's a noticeable jerk? that's from (mainly) i big differance in RPMs from the two devices.

It's a good thing to practice, and if you do down shift already and don't match the revs, try it. Your transmission will love you for it (car OR bike).

** When i say rev up, i mean rev it and ease off the throttle too. You don't want to be revved too high by accident and let the clutch out. Could result in sudden lifting of the front and other bad stuff.

That might answer my question about race riders. I frequently notice them throttling when going down through each gear as they approach turns and wondered why.

Thanks for the information.

MJ wrote:That might answer my question about race riders. I frequently notice them throttling when going down through each gear as they approach turns and wondered why.

Thanks for the information.

n/p, not only does it help slow down with out having a big brake battle, but also plops them into their power band. Try it in a car some time, works real nice in twisties. It's also hella safer in snow/bad rain when slowing down. Don't want to be on your brakes too much in that nasty stuff, lock up and slide. Even with ABS. locked up my mom's 01 cheerokee with ABS in about 4 inches of snow.