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Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2005 2:35 pm
by gerpena
9000white wrote:take it out and let the parts house check and see if it is dead before you buy a new one.
Thanks for your help. The hissing sound seems electrical to me, almost like the sound you hear when you try to turn on the bike in the “off” position. It does not at all seem like a sound that emanates from a motor attempting to start. The hissing sound starts strong and then just dies—almost like a choking sound but I am almost certain it is not the motor. Today after work I tried to start the bike again and it worked…. But after shutting the bike after 10 minutes it no longer worked and the decaying hissing sound resumed when I tried to start it again.

Here are exactly the events that lead up to today. I hope this helps explain things a little better:

1. The ignition needed to be replaced because someone jammed a screw driver into it in a theft attempt, so I bought one that looked identical but was designed for 750 nighthawks. I simply replaced my wiring with the one it came with and my bike started up perfectly.

2. However, I noticed when I turned the ignition into the "locked" position; my rear red (break) light would turn on and stay on. This did not happen before the robbery attempt and only happens in the "locked" position, not in the "off" position. I kept this in mind and only turned the bike to the “off” position when not in use.

3. It is possible that my battery may be draining due to a mistake I made in the ignition installation. I noticed during my morning ride the rpm gage was NOT working, but the odometer was. However, the battery started fine this morning and the lights all seem to work fine as did the motor. It was running great.

4. I took the battery into an auto parts store to have the battery checked. The guy said the voltage was fine, but the charge was almost at zero. After I explained to him that I had already used the bike that morning, he thought it might be (a) the malfunctioning battery that no longer took charge; (b) the battery was fine and just needed recharging; or (c) the alternator was broken and needed to be replaced (~$300).

5. In a few hours I will pick up the battery and try again. Ill post an update at that time.

Thanks again guys.

g

Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 4:25 am
by -Holiday
sounds like your battery isnt fully charged.
You really need to put a meter to the battery, and then start from there.

If its low, charge it up and see if it holds. If it doesnt, then move onto seeing if its being properly charged, or not holding a charge.

If you dont systematically track down the issues you're going to end up spending money unnecisarily.

You can get a meter at pep boys for 10 bucks. You'll use it more then once in your life.

Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 12:29 pm
by mydlyfkryzis
Honda's have an overrunning clutch on the starter (Not the clutch you use to shift). This way the engine can turn faster than the starter without overspinning the starter motor. It is not unusual for this clutch to fail. When it does, you hear the starter motor spinning, but not the Engine.

You have to open the side case to get at it and check it. Helps to have a manual.

If it is the starter clutch, you could still push start it to make sure the rest of the system is o.k.

Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 1:31 pm
by 9000white
if you have a test light hook the positive cable and before you hook up the negative cable hook the test light to it and touch the probe end to the negative battery post if you have something that is draining the battery fast the light will come on.