Kick Start Help!

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#11 Unread post by **Kal** » Thu Sep 15, 2005 8:23 am

Ta for that...

I'd forgotten to shut mine off in the rush to get in out of the cold wet...

TorontoBoy · Fri Sep 16, 2005 12:21 am

I often wonder who is in charge, the bike or I. A 20 yo biddy will have a mind of her own, so get to know her. I often flooded when starting, so layed off the throttle. For me, when it's not hot (less than 25C) I need to put on a little choke or I'll be kicking for a long time. I also need to rev above idle for about 10 mins until she warms up or she'll die at a stoplight. Once started for a minute or so there's no problems restarting.

Henriettaah · Fri Sep 16, 2005 12:27 am

Well I got my Haynes manual today

So I can now proceed to figure out where the spark/s are

Henriettaah · Fri Sep 16, 2005 6:12 am

Well, I started it again today, and more than once, remembering to shut the fuel choke and engine off after each time! The carb floods very easily when standing, and the bike won't idle by itself even with the choke out - it will fire up well with no throttle and the choke out, but put-puts out if no throttle is applied after that. It only needs a tiny tweak to keep it going.

It is running 'rich' - does this mean too much oil, or too much fuel? And this can be a reason for both flooding and not idling?

I wondered if the air filter needed cleaning... but this involves removing the fuel tank to get to it!

#15 Unread post by **Kal** » Fri Sep 16, 2005 6:59 am

Rmoving the fuel tank isnt a scary thing, promise.

Running rich usually refers to too much fuel in the fuel/air mix.

There should be a timing screw somewhere fairly easy to get to that will allow you to adjust the engine idle speed so Elsie dosnt need the throttle opening to tick over.

Probably somewhere near the carbs.

Henriettaah · Fri Sep 16, 2005 11:32 am

On the carb there is the 'throttle stop screw' and the 'pilot air screw'.

Does the air screw regulate the air intake into the fuel/air mix?

What does the throttle stop screw do?

I tackled connecting the indicators and rear brake lights up to the wiring loom with the able assistance of my trusty Haynes. Fingers crossed its correct.

However - the engine needs to be running for the electrics to work, it would appear. Not just when the ignition is turned to 'on'. Any electrical whizzes out there?

I need to get a parking bulb to wire in, and - there is no speedo cable!

This is an MOT fail, right - how will I know how fast I'm going! And, more to the point - how do you replace/fix this. Where in the engine does it lead to?

Henriettaah · Fri Sep 16, 2005 11:36 am

Please tell me this bit I've just found in the Haynes is irrevelant:

"The speedomoeter drive gearbox... is a single component which cannot be stripped easily, Note that there are no parts available to recondition it and and any damage or malfunction can only corrected by renewing the gearbox"

Is this where the speedo cable feeds into?

Henriettaah · Fri Sep 16, 2005 11:29 pm

There are speedo cables on eBay so I'm assuming I'll be able to sort that one ok.

#19 Unread post by **Kal** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 8:07 am

Haynes are very good at having relevant pictures on the same page as the descriptin of any tricky bits.

My speedo canle feeds from the clocks down behind the forks and on to the front wheel hub.

If you mangaed the Electrics then fitting a speedo cable wont be any trouble at all

Henriettaah · Mon Sep 19, 2005 8:20 am

Speedo cable won't be a problem but am missing the bit that secures the cable to the sidde of the mudguard? Sure I can improvise though.

The battery was dead flat so bought a new one. Solved a lot of it but -things like there is no current going through the indicator wiring at all; the oil lamp is wired into the neutral lamp (put it in gear and light goes out

) and I need two new bulbs for the back lights. One filament in each bumb had blown

Have got the most of my gear now - Shark s-500 lid (had to get a large!

) Akito pants and boots. Did get some gloves which I now don't think are adequate so want to get some better ones - but best bargin of the lot was my Swift jacket - with full CE Bodyguard armour, zips to trousers, removable quilted lining, Kevlar on the inner arms. Only £35 ($63) brand new, even with one of those zip up dust protector soft plastic wardrobe bags!

Really pleased with that. Was worried it was a bit big but shall reassure myself later by trying it on with a nice thick poloneck jumper later.

Thought by getting a closer fit, I might end up compromising on arm movement etc.