Thanks for the advice, I might do that later. As for now, I just drop the pictures onto my computer and run my shell script to resize them. I'm quite lazy when it comes to computers.Sevulturus wrote:Looks like you're using a 3 megapixel camera there. Even for fine details hold it at least 2 feet from the object and you won't have to worry about it going fuzzy. A simply photoediting program will allow you to crop to the important bits. And since 3 megapixels is aprox 8.5" by 11" it should be fine
Katana progress
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[url=http://www.motoblag.com/blag/]Practicing the dark and forgotten art of using turn signals since '98.[/url]
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Got off the horn with Galfer's tech support. I had to give them a ring due to incredibly vague instructions that weren't even appropriate for my application. Thankfully, I had the problem resolved within about five minutes. Top-notch tech support, probably helped I talked to an ex-Katana owner.
I can now wrench on the brakes all I want and I'll be danged if they just do not give at all. This will be fun to get her out on the road, soon!
Next up is installing the carbs and getting her running again. After that, some minor body work and I can have her out on the roads in streetfighter form. Better give my insurance agent a call and get coverage for it soon!
I can now wrench on the brakes all I want and I'll be danged if they just do not give at all. This will be fun to get her out on the road, soon!
Next up is installing the carbs and getting her running again. After that, some minor body work and I can have her out on the roads in streetfighter form. Better give my insurance agent a call and get coverage for it soon!
[url=http://www.motoblag.com/blag/]Practicing the dark and forgotten art of using turn signals since '98.[/url]
- Skier
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I have to take a look into my righthand side calipers sometime soon - there's a problem with the bleeder. I open her up and don't get anything out of it, no matter how hard I pull on the brake lever. That's the bad thing, but the good thing is I can squeeze that lever as hard as I can and it feels great and there aren't any leaks. 
I'll do my best to sneak in some more time on the bike in the very near future.

I'll do my best to sneak in some more time on the bike in the very near future.
[url=http://www.motoblag.com/blag/]Practicing the dark and forgotten art of using turn signals since '98.[/url]
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Update: Bleeder problem taken care of (I think it had some crud jammed in there, replaced it with a different speed bleeder and all was well), front SS lines stealthily covered with black automotive wiring loom and rear brakes have a speedbleeder and new, synthetic DOT4 goodness in the entire system.
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- mysta2
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Noooooo! not phillips... man, you're going to hate yourself later. Sockets, 6points, torx, slots... anything but phillips.(the crown royal bag is nice though)Skier wrote:...Give up on the busted up old screws and go for shiny:
...
I don't think you'll have any problem removing them since next time you check them after a ride half of them will have fallen out, and the rest you'll be able to turn out by hand. My expiriance with anti sieze I admit is limited since I will never touch anything with it unless the factory manual demands it. If it will dampen the effects of vibration on hardware (act as a lightweight threadlock) I retract that statement, but on my bike any bolt that is not threadlocked will turn itself out within the span of a days riding.Skier wrote:...Not going to have another problem removing these F-ers:
...
I would suggest socket head bolts, they look good, their wrences are small and easy to carry and if something's really stuck you're more likely to round off the wrench then the bolt (and I'd much rather round out a $0.25 wrench then have to drill a bolt out of my block) Having said that, don't get chomed ones , they will rust. If you want shiny get stainless and dip the entire length of the thread in blue threadlock so they don't gall, but I think black looks the best.
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I'll start off defending what I did by saying the Crown bag is where my camera resides. That's why it's in almost every picture I take. (learned that one from my dad
).
As for choosing to get regular pan-head screws, I did that due to the size of the carb boot itself. Stock screws were almost exactly the same as I purchased. They had a little skirt around the base of the head that acted as a washer to apply lots of nice, even pressure to keep the boot on. I debated going for a combination of washer and regular bolt, but decided there was not enough clearance and I would chew up my expensive carb boots. So regular screws it was.
As for not thread-locking them in place, that could be a problem. I am not sure if they will vibrate out or not. I do not think it will be a problem, though. If it is, it'd be fairly easy to notice and take at most a day to tear all my plastics off and do something about it, like jam some thread sealer or locker in there. I am just not sold on them getting stuck in there again, since hex bolts are probably out of the question (see above).
I am always open for ideas and comments, please keep them coming.

As for choosing to get regular pan-head screws, I did that due to the size of the carb boot itself. Stock screws were almost exactly the same as I purchased. They had a little skirt around the base of the head that acted as a washer to apply lots of nice, even pressure to keep the boot on. I debated going for a combination of washer and regular bolt, but decided there was not enough clearance and I would chew up my expensive carb boots. So regular screws it was.
As for not thread-locking them in place, that could be a problem. I am not sure if they will vibrate out or not. I do not think it will be a problem, though. If it is, it'd be fairly easy to notice and take at most a day to tear all my plastics off and do something about it, like jam some thread sealer or locker in there. I am just not sold on them getting stuck in there again, since hex bolts are probably out of the question (see above).
I am always open for ideas and comments, please keep them coming.
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I know it's getting air, fuel and spark. Still doesn't want to fire up and I'm not sure why.

This little break from homework just frustrated me more than graph-theory stuff, and to top it off I just noticed someone gave my Civic a parking lot scrape sometime this weekend.

That's life for ya... just get kicked in the teeth, constantly.
(edit)
Took some time to finally eat some lunch and talk with fellow gearheads. General consensus is the bike is running VERY lean, since my plugs are dry and it doesn't so much as pop when cranking.
[url=http://www.motoblag.com/blag/]Practicing the dark and forgotten art of using turn signals since '98.[/url]
- mysta2
- Legendary 300
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sorry to hear you're not having much luck... sounds a lot like the troubles I get.
Allens should be readily available in button, flat, or socket head. I didn't mean to attack your' decision or build scheme I just know how much I hate phillips because the best phillips will never seat a screwdriver anywhere near as well as the worst allen will fit a key. The smaller head that a socket head allen has shouldn't be an issue seeing that the boot through holes have bushings in them... but even if it was you could get a buttonhead. Which will require a smaller key then the socket head, but have the same shoulder diameter as the phillips you used.
anyway, nice work on the bike. I'm sure you'll get it up and humming before I do mine... too many projects (and currently none of them involve any of my bikes
)
Allens should be readily available in button, flat, or socket head. I didn't mean to attack your' decision or build scheme I just know how much I hate phillips because the best phillips will never seat a screwdriver anywhere near as well as the worst allen will fit a key. The smaller head that a socket head allen has shouldn't be an issue seeing that the boot through holes have bushings in them... but even if it was you could get a buttonhead. Which will require a smaller key then the socket head, but have the same shoulder diameter as the phillips you used.
anyway, nice work on the bike. I'm sure you'll get it up and humming before I do mine... too many projects (and currently none of them involve any of my bikes

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I still have some ideas and tricks up my sleeve for getting it started. Hopefully they will work.mysta2 wrote:sorry to hear you're not having much luck... sounds a lot like the troubles I get.
Allens should be readily available in button, flat, or socket head. I didn't mean to attack your' decision or build scheme I just know how much I hate phillips because the best phillips will never seat a screwdriver anywhere near as well as the worst allen will fit a key. The smaller head that a socket head allen has shouldn't be an issue seeing that the boot through holes have bushings in them... but even if it was you could get a buttonhead. Which will require a smaller key then the socket head, but have the same shoulder diameter as the phillips you used.
anyway, nice work on the bike. I'm sure you'll get it up and humming before I do mine... too many projects (and currently none of them involve any of my bikes)

I am not aware of a local store having the correct allen bolts I require, but if I get some time I might bring one of my mangled screws to the Fastenal branch the next town over.
I wouldn't put money on having my bike running before the Apocalpyse, personally. School sucks. I just finished spending an unfruitful hour playing with a first-release embedded controller board and am now moving on to fun fun databases. Throw me a wrench any day of the week before giving me SQL queries!
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Hooray for no school tomorrow! Bike fires up and runs, I believe it's stupidly rich with the airbox and air filter on.
Filled the house with some good ol' white smoke.
Time to see if I can get it running somewhat decently.
Filled the house with some good ol' white smoke.

[url=http://www.motoblag.com/blag/]Practicing the dark and forgotten art of using turn signals since '98.[/url]