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The bikes used in the MSF courses usually have some "character" from being thrashed so much. I used a Suzuki DR125 during my MSF course (took it about 3 weeks ago). This bike hated going into neutral, most of the time it would jump neutral and go into gear, plus the starter button was tempermental and didn't want to work half the time. The only non thrashed bike out on the range was the lucky gal who got the brand new rebel, most of the rest of the class was on GZ250s

rbickers wrote:Thanks for all of your responses.

I guess they just want you to practice downshifting before the turn. It seems a third to second would be a better exercise, but one can only do so much on a small range.

by the way, there is nothing stopping you going down 2 gears at once, I quite often shift from 4th to 2nd for a turn. But, then again, Im weird.

I basically listen to the RPMs, down or upshift accordingly. I like having a little bit of pull going into a turn, so that usually has me in second. Also, careful with making turns in first gear, its not hard to upset the bike in that gear.

As a basic rule going into turns, be very smooth on the throttle and have your braking and shifting done before you enter the turn. This keeps the bike as stable as possible and saves available traction for emergencies. Im not saying not to brake in a turn, Im just saying try and put yourself in a position where you dont have to.

Shane-o, you are not weird, all the courses that I have been on recently, teach this method. On my older bikes I would use engine braking but on the new bikes we are taught to select the gear for the task, much as you would on a track. Mabe you are doing naturally what we have to be taught.

swatter555 wrote:Im not saying not to brake in a turn, Im just saying try and put yourself in a position where you dont have to.

A classmate learned the hard way not to use his front brake in a turn. Ouch.

Yes, you need to shift into first. You'll be bogging the engine otherwise. Pull the clutch in and glide into the turn, while downshifting. Smooth on power as you let the clutch out gingerly, then power through the end of the turn as you roll on the throttle. Precision steering is key in these situations, as you transition from countersteering to steering. Feather the rear brake to control the bike; a lot of front brake jabs can fk yo up.Use the front brake smooth and gentle.

You CAN roll second gear through these tight turns, but in city streets there will be old lady's at the crosswalks, and children following a bouncing ball right after you turn. Best to get out of lanes and go through it slowly. That means first gear to power out of the turn.

sapaul wrote:Shane-o, you are not weird.

Yes ... yes he is.

Just look at the photo in his sig!

No Spiff, man. You are confusing weird with ugly

PhilD9er wrote:Pull the clutch in and glide into the turn, while downshifting. Smooth on power as you let the clutch out gingerly...

If I understand this correctly, it's contradictory to what is taught in the MSF course in that they say to finish all shifting and braking before entering the turn (ie, before any leaning). You don't have as much control when the clutch is disengaged and a less than smooth shift is more dangerous while turning.

The thing I have followed with a car, and I am sure it applies to motorcycles as well, is that they are made to do 3 things; go, stop and turn. The thing to remember is that they can only do one thing at a time. They go and stop well in straight lines but when turning, all other inputs should be kept to a minimum.