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you need to replace it.
if it splits while you are riding it and you dont notice it the journey will end in tears.

9000white wrote:you need to replace it

I know really Its just a bit of a massive pain in the @ss job to replace a slim piece of pipe

the more you work on it the more you will learn about it.
that is a good thing.

What is this tube made out of? On my old RD-LC's it was simple clear plastic tubing, just like the stuff they use as drain lines on carb vents, ect. If this is the same as yours, it's not too hard to change. You can splice a new piece of tubing onto the original after cutting it back to eliminate the split.... but this means using a splicing coupler of some type or another, and they all restrict the inner diameter of the tube. It's small enough already, it doesn't need an extra restriction.

On my 350's the oil-pump was behind a separate small plastic sidecover so it didn't require removing the case sidecover(and draining oil and pulling the kickstarter), but I've never seen a 125LC so I can believe the cases are different enough that you do. Sucks. Sorry.

You can re-use the oil you drain out if it's fresh(I know it is) or what I used to do when working on the clutch on mine.... lay the bike on it's left side on some thick cardboard or an old blanket or such. Then you don't have to drain the oil. My bikes were naked though......

Once you have access to the oil pump, changing the tubing should be easy.

BuzZz wrote:What is this tube made out of... You can splice a new piece of tubing onto the original after cutting it back to eliminate the split.... but this means using a splicing coupler of some type or another

Its the same kind of pipe used on air lines in fish tanks In fact, is that the kind of 'splicer' you are talking about? I have single connectors for air lines, such as this: http://www.equarium.com.au/store/detail ... 341&cat=22 Was that what you mean?

Yep, just like that...... but you have to make sure it is oil-resistant and fuel-safe, both the connector and the tubing. The connector will restrict the inner diameter of your line. It's very low pressure and a positive displacement pump, so it will probably work fine, if you can stand living with the knowledge of the built-in restriction you put in there. I couldn't....

I suppose the question would be whether it would hold back the pull of oil into the carb. If it didn't, I'd be fine with that as a more temporary fix, until I had a day to do the work needed to replace the line.

How would I know if the connector was oil-resistant?

Well the oil is pushed into the carb. By a positive displacement pump with variable displacement. This is so it can be set to deliver the deseired amount of oil very accurately for any given engine speed. The oil will flow, no sucking required.

If the hose and fittings are not specifically touted as fuel and oil resistent, they probably aren't. You can check with the dealer or manufacturer to be sure, but I would tend to doubt aquarium stuff is.

This is mostly for man-made materials, a brass connector would be no problem.

Well now - I've done it

I looked at the crankcase tonight and where the lube lines ran in there looked as if there was a seperate cover for the autolube pump... So I unscrewed the four bolts/hex screws, hoping I wasn't going to be greeted by a gush of oil, and behold - there was the lube pump in its own casing! Very pleased about that. So I found some new tubing upstairs, primed it by drawing up direct from the reserve tank, and put the new line on a couple of cable ties and jobs a good 'un!

Even better, my neighbour is going to ride the bike with me on the back up to a big lit carpark just round the corner tomorrow night, so I can get my first practice in before the CBT. Really pleased, and her daughter is going to mind my son while we go up for an hour or so.

see......the more you work on it the more smarter you will be.