Total Motorcycle Community Forums

What's the difference in cost between dino and synthetic? I've been running dino, and a 3.8 liter oil change costs me in the range of $10 +$4 for the filter. I've yet to price out the alternative.

sev, synthetic prices vary a lot. Shell Rotella T is like $13 for a gallon at walmart...and mobil-1 for motorcycles is over $7 for a quart. ttyl.

Paul, thank you for your response on synthetics. That is good information to know regarding the energy conserving rating of oil. I know when I put Synthetic in my bike, an 1979 Suzuki GS 750 L, the cam chain really became more quiet, and like I said, the clutch chatter went away when in less than ideal conditons for heat.

I have been using Mobile 1, and it probably has those "Energy Saving" properties in it. I will have to look. What brands are out there that do not have the Energy Saving properties?

Thanks everyone for the reply.

Greg O.

ZooTech wrote:

Skier wrote:

ZooTech wrote:One thing to bear in mind is that dino oil, while heavily refined and filtered, is still imperfect and contains particals of varying sizes and even particals of substances that are harmful to your engine. Synthetic oils are created in a lab, so the only things you'll find in the oil are things deliberately put there by the lab.

From the reading and research I have done, dino oil base is so refined nowadays this is a moot point.

I can't wait for this thread to spiral out of control, everyone has a stance on what kind of oil to use, when to change it and how. A holy way always develops and it can be humorous to watch.

Nah, there's no reason for this discussion to become heated. No one can really argue that dino oil is bad, per se, they can only argue the merits of using synthetic oil, like a cooler operating temperature. All of the cost arguments that have been brought up do not apply when you practice extended oil change intervals as I do. You're not doing any harm by using dino oil and changing it every 3,000 miles. But I'd rather use synthetic and change it every ten.

Ah, see, but there is the problem, in my situation. Synthetic oil will get just as fuel-diluted as dino oil, preventing me from safely running longer oil change intervals. In my mind, it'd be flushing money down the toilet. Sure, it may make my bike run cooler, but it didn't seem to be a problem with how the bike ran when it was made 20 years ago when everyone ran dino oil.

floatsmyboat wrote:I have been using Mobile 1, and it probably has those "Energy Saving" properties in it. I will have to look. What brands are out there that do not have the Energy Saving properties?

None of the motorcycle-specific oils have that energy-conservation additive in it. Only if you've been using the automotive version (for cars) would that be a problem.

Energy saving basically meaning Teflon or something similar has been added. No Stick is hella cool on my frying pan. But sucks "O Ring" in my drive train.

Just to throw my own dino bones in to the discussion, I ride nearly 10,000 miles a year (and after my tire costs this year, less next year) but that amounted to three, maybe 4 oil changes in the year. I buy Kawasaki dino at the dealer and the Kawasaki filter. When I do my own oil changes that cost me just over $20, so for less then $100 a year I can keep my bike in fresh dino. Seem economical enough and oil changes are easy. Also it makes me look at what is in my oil regularly and allows for regular inspection of the bike as a whole, since it is up on the stand. Works for me, but I sure get the idea of stretching the interval.

I don't like the idea of stretching oil change intervals with Syn. I still change at the recomended intervals in all my vehichles and boat regardless of what type of oil I use.

Greg O.

floatsmyboat wrote:I don't like the idea of stretching oil change intervals with Syn. I still change at the recomended intervals in all my vehichles and boat regardless of what type of oil I use.

Greg O.

At $50.00 per change for the bike, and $25.00 per change for the truck...and the fact that I drive the truck 3,000 miles per month (4,000 in the winter) and I ride the bike 1,000 miles per month, I cannot afford to change the oil every 3,000 miles, money OR time wise.

ZooTech wrote:

floatsmyboat wrote:I have been using Mobile 1, and it probably has those "Energy Saving" properties in it. I will have to look. What brands are out there that do not have the Energy Saving properties?

None of the motorcycle-specific oils have that energy-conservation additive in it. Only if you've been using the automotive version (for cars) would that be a problem.

Actually, most motorcycle-specific oils DO have the energy conserving additive in them. Hard to believe...but it is true. Some brands have none, many have less than 100ppm, some have in excess of 300ppm. On the flip side, some car/truck synthetic oils have no friction modifiers, such as Rotella synthetic .

The friction modifier IS NOT Teflon. It is molybedenum (typically called moly) that is actually a metal that forms plates that are very slippery and resistant to shearing forces. The effect of moly on wet clutch plates is negligble until you really force the oil temp up with heavy acceleration forces through the clutch. This is where moly starts to do its job and where you will begin to have problems if you are using an oil that has in the order of 500ppm moly. If you are an easy going rider you don't have anything to worry about.

I have been using car synthetic oil in my bikes for years. I just make sure there isn't an "energy conserving" designation in the doughnut part of the label. This indicates there is low or no moly in the additive package.