Why do you bother to build a bike
- britishjoe
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- Sev
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It's starting to come together, I think clean up the brake and other lines a little and it'll be very sweet. I cannot wait to see the finished product.
Of course I'm generalizing from a single example here, but everyone does that. At least I do.
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- BuzZz
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Nice job on them struts, Dude.
How did you make 2 matching, compound curve pieces for inside around the forks? You must have access to some metal fab tools, eh?
Each side must be 2 pieces, I'm thinkin'. Did you make the cut-outs in the front parts before or after you rolled the curve? Worked nice, however you did it.
I feel bad saying that the look doesn't really do it for me. The fender looks too small to me. But that's just personal taste, it has no bearing on the work itself, which like I said, is slick.

How did you make 2 matching, compound curve pieces for inside around the forks? You must have access to some metal fab tools, eh?

Each side must be 2 pieces, I'm thinkin'. Did you make the cut-outs in the front parts before or after you rolled the curve? Worked nice, however you did it.
I feel bad saying that the look doesn't really do it for me. The fender looks too small to me. But that's just personal taste, it has no bearing on the work itself, which like I said, is slick.
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- britishjoe
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- mysta2
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Because it's just as much about the build as it is about the finished product. Although building is boot camp the satisfaction that it gives you makes it all worth it.
btw: be careful what you clear the metal with, most clears will not stick to metal very good because it's not absorbant, you have to make up for that by either roughing up the surface really hardcore or finding a clear that will bond chemically, and if you find one let me know. When I hit mine with an air line all the clear ripped off (except for on the flag) I DA'd it with 600, and used PPG 2002.
btw: be careful what you clear the metal with, most clears will not stick to metal very good because it's not absorbant, you have to make up for that by either roughing up the surface really hardcore or finding a clear that will bond chemically, and if you find one let me know. When I hit mine with an air line all the clear ripped off (except for on the flag) I DA'd it with 600, and used PPG 2002.
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Check out my [url=http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/BBS/viewtopic.php?t=5844]blog[/url] for the latest on my little project.
Check out my [url=http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/BBS/viewtopic.php?t=5844]blog[/url] for the latest on my little project.
- britishjoe
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- mysta2
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that's what PPG 2002 is (3 part catalysed clear, shot with an HVLP system)
Harley uses a clear on thier fenders which have bare metal accents... I ordered some of it through a dealer, but in standard harley fasion I never heard from them again. I'm not convinced that thiers is going to be any better though. When it's just accent areas the paint is still held together with all the basecoats around it, and should hold up fine as long as it doesn't take any direct impact (it's a completely different story when you're talking about the entire surface). Triumph also clears thier brushed valve covers on the Thruxton... I've never looked into that one. The most sure bet I can come up with is brushing or pouring waterclear resin onto the part and polishing it up after it kicks off (I've never tried that though)
Or you could just leave it bare and keep it waxed.
Harley uses a clear on thier fenders which have bare metal accents... I ordered some of it through a dealer, but in standard harley fasion I never heard from them again. I'm not convinced that thiers is going to be any better though. When it's just accent areas the paint is still held together with all the basecoats around it, and should hold up fine as long as it doesn't take any direct impact (it's a completely different story when you're talking about the entire surface). Triumph also clears thier brushed valve covers on the Thruxton... I've never looked into that one. The most sure bet I can come up with is brushing or pouring waterclear resin onto the part and polishing it up after it kicks off (I've never tried that though)
Or you could just leave it bare and keep it waxed.
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Check out my [url=http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/BBS/viewtopic.php?t=5844]blog[/url] for the latest on my little project.
Check out my [url=http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/BBS/viewtopic.php?t=5844]blog[/url] for the latest on my little project.
I like what your doing Joe. It is nice to have something that is different and not the same as everyone else is riding.
In my case, having a 27 year old bike, you don't run into many at all. I plan some more changes over the winter and can't wait for Spring to feel what she's going to ride like.
In my case, having a 27 year old bike, you don't run into many at all. I plan some more changes over the winter and can't wait for Spring to feel what she's going to ride like.
Rob
1978 KZ650C2
1978 KZ650C2 father/son project
1979 KZ650C3
1978 KZ650C2
1978 KZ650C2 father/son project
1979 KZ650C3
- BuzZz
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All these new shiney and brushed aluminum frames, car wheels and trim pieces found on everything these days come from factory with some kind of clearcoat on them. And it is tough as cougar snot to remove. But exactly what it is, I don't know for sure. It may be paint, or a clear powdercoat...... or someother substance. It has a very 'plastic'-y feel to it, 'specially when sanding friction heats it up.
On a completely unrelated subject... if you ever decide to polish a set of brushed aluminum rims for a buddy, you'd best be very dedicated.
On a completely unrelated subject... if you ever decide to polish a set of brushed aluminum rims for a buddy, you'd best be very dedicated.

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