Total Motorcycle Community Forums

For all of you that have put in requests for headlight brackets, I want to let you know that I appreciate you contacting me, but mostly it's been through PM which has a history of not working all that well since many people here only sign up to send me a message, and then never look at their PMs again.

So, I've made a special folder for all of you that want brackets in my Email. If you're still interested please send me an Email (kit@dropbars.com) specifying which style you'd like (between machined or polished) Sending me an Email is the only way I can guarantee you will get on my list. With a PM you might get on the list but I can't promise it. The people on the list will be the first to have the opportunity to buy my next run.

There is one thing that I have immediately available and that's VIN tags, I've had a few people contact me about this and I would like to start offering it. But I'm going to need something from you in order to do it. Anyone who wants/needs a reconditioned VIN tag will need to send me their old tag for me to match. Along with an Email to let me know its coming and the details off it (Date manufactured and VIN in case they're not legible) Keep in mind that the new tag will look just like mine in the previous post (it will of course have your' numbers on it but they will be printed, not stamped) I should be able to do this for all types of bikes, not just 360s, but I will need the original tags.

Ignition Inc.
ATTN: Kit Headley
2701 E. Plano Pkwy
Suite 100
Plano, TX. 75074

The cost for a new tag will be $50 ($30 for a second tag if their done at the same time)

Again, thanks. and I'll get some more brackets out as fast as I can.

I was having a hell of a time stretching my center stand spring onto its' mounts (everything becomes a lot more difficult when your frame is painted) I got this idea from someone over at DoTheTon.

(my girls camera and I don't seem to get along, I apologize for the fuzzy pics, be sure to brace yourself because there will be some more in posts to come, sorry)

All you need is a fistfull of pennies:

... and a mallet to bash pennies, and a C clamp to hold everything in place if you want to do it yourself.



I think I used something like 11 pennies to get here:


This is with the same amount


so obviously the shorter distance is with the stand up, make sure to install it in that position.

This just doesn't look right:


Stripped:



Since the frame weighs a bunch less then the motor and it's got all kinds of nifty grab handles all over it, it's a lot easier to drop IT on the motor. It would have been a decent idea to tape the frame up to keep from nicking it but it's so light and easy to handle I didn't have a problem mating them by myself (make sure the vent cover is off the top of the motor or it wont slide in)

...I did bash the frame all up a little later... but that had nothing to do with the motor.

I like staying in cheap motels, that's where all my shop towels come from

... lots of towels

Fuzzy pic of a perfect fit


frontend


and it gains the ability to stand on its' own:



note the missing vent cover:




As I'm rummaging through maving/parts boxes the garage become more and more of a mess... and then, all of a sudden:

It's clean again, It must've been late.



I love this angle:







Getting closer... I can hardly stand it!

kickstart: 1. starter that is activated by the foot and the weight of the body 2. the only proper way to start a motorcycle

Electric starters are heavy, unreliable and add annoyingly to the wiring mess, so the only reasonable thing to do is to pitch them.

...and look at all you get to get rid of, and that's not even mentioning the main wire, solenoid, secondary wiring or the switch


My generator flywheel had already been swiped before I bought this bike, so I can't show you how I took it off, because I didn't. But this is how I put it back on. There's a key the slides into the slot in the crank, make sure you have that and that it's in place before installing the flywheel (it would be really easy to loose)

Strap wrench, torque wrench, big bolt, and a stack of washers.

I torqued it down to the spec in my book and then...

...removed the bolt

Doesn't it just look so much lighter?

(and fuzzier)

...but now there's a big hole in the side of my motor

I need a plug. Back to the mill to cut some metal




Just in case anyone can't figure out where the starter is


when I made the part I didn't properly account for the lack of space inside the case, so I need to shave a bit off.

Using some doublesided tape I cover the area and rough cut the edge


finish with 600


and place the plug retainer

(the Ducati sure is nicely in focus huh)

cut away extra tape


and my template is ready


run a sharpie along the edge

and start sanding


this is what I needed



and this is why

perfect


money shot


My bolt looks a little long though

I like metal, it has a truth to it, and because I have little to no experience with it it also has a level of mystery to me.

As I've stated before, my 750 is the first '70s era inline 4 that I've ever liked the looks of, so it makes sense to maintain some of that look, right. I was originally thinking I would fabricate a new composite tank from scratch for Squid, but I discovered that the F tank (the tank I've got) is somewhat of a find and it would be a shame to trash it, so now I'm going to try to resto/mod it. I want to get rid of the silly fuel door on the top and replace it with a flip cap of some sort. I also want to smooth out the sides and knock any dents out.

Shaking the tank makes a marocca like sound... not good. I need to get inside it so that I can start fresh, and find out exactly what I have to work with. brake out the grinder

I used a flapwheel sanding disk on my grinder, it's a little slower than a typical grinding wheel and leaves a better finish. With a hard wheel I'd be building up a lot of heat and melting the parts together as I was trying to grind them apart, and that's kind of annoying. You can tell when you're getting close to the end of the joint when it gets louder (the sound of the grinder starts to echo inside the tank) before it pops open.

In the last pic you can see the seam opening up a little.

This hole was my only trouble spot, This is a drain for the fuel door pocket and goes completely through and is welded to both the inner and outer piece.

I drilled it out.

30 year yawn


all this junk was once part of the tank...

... that means it's lighter than it was originally

Gross...

...gross...

...gross...

...gross...


A little Scotchbrite and some rust remover later


good stuff

...and this is only the beginning

Holy cr*p, I just spent the last hour or so reading through this entire thread. Your creativity and abilities are most likely going to make me late for work in the morning.

I may have to make a trip over to Garland just to check your stuff out in person. Oh, and to get some tips.

Oh thanks for reminding me, I need to change that. I don't live in Garland anymore. I'm just north of you in Little Elm.

Cool, I won't have to refinance my house to be able to afford the gas to come over anymore.

i thought i'd add a few photos of a plug i bought thru MG. it's in my cl350 but it looks like it would fit in my cj360 as well. i don't know much about fabrication but it looks to me like it would take less effort to produce one like this. the o-ring makes for a really tight fit requiring a rubber mallet to install it. the nub on the back fits in a hole on the side cover.

before the final install i'll have to sand off their logo . i wouldn't mind having one like yours if you decide to knock out a few more. cheers...jeff

Yeah that would be easier to make, I felt the need for a nice positive lock so it will be sure to never fall out, might be overkill, but that's how I roll.

Thanks for the pics.