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My thought there was that the kickstand, neutral, and clutch interlocks are usually connected. Well, I don't know usually actually but they are on my bikes. You can start in gear with the kickstand down as long as the clutch is pulled. If you release the clutch while in gear with the kickstand down it'll kill... If you release the clutch while in neutral the kickstand position doesn't matter.

So if whatever was causing the kickstand switch to misfire (like verm's big #8 boots hitting the kickstand switch wire as he does his GP-shift-dance) only happened when the clutch was likely to be pulled, the engine wouldn't die until the declutch.

It isn't airtight... I'm not sure it would restart easily.... but it seemed like a reasonable first approximation.

i checked my kickstand button but i can't see any wires outside. it's just a thing that gets pushed when the stand is up.

anyway... i called the dealer, im scheduled to bring the bike next wednesday.

i'll still use the bike. it doesn't happen constantly anyway.

Take out the TRE before you bother with a mechanic.

did you remember to fill it up with gas?

and +1 on removing the TRE.

Krap.

I was hoping to read about V's trip to the dealer and thier reaction to his having that TRE on his bike......

it's been happening a lot more now. 2 times today.

i've narrowed it down... this is how it happened on both occasions.

it happens when im about to slow down almost to a complete stop... i brake, then pull in the clutch then power cuts off while im still holding the clucth.

WTF is this?

i'll try to remove the TRE and increase my idle(it's only at 800rpm now).

i decided to adjust my idle 1st so i can figure it out step by step. i set it at 1300rpm. it was on 800rpm before. i guees the idle screw moved after all the riding i did since i bought it.

if not, then i'll remove my TRE.

and good thing i was able to fit my hand in between the fairings... normally, you have to remove the left fairing to access the idle screw.

ZooTech wrote:

flynrider wrote:That's what I was thinking as I read this. But then I started thinking more about it and I don't think the clutch switch can kill the ignition (like the kickstand switch does). On most applications I've seen, the clutch switch is there to prevent starting with the clutch lever out, so it only cuts off the starter circuit instead of the ignition.

Ah, good point. If it is the kickstand switch, though, that doesn't account for it happening only during shifts.

Maybe jiggling the sidestand with his foot when he shifts? *sheesh. just ALMOST missed that F in there. I've heard about scaring the crap out of yourself, but that would be ridiculous.

well, since this occurs when you are shifting, and you had your mechanic modify your shifter to be GP style, maybe, just maybe, something has occured there.

I think it's probably just a loose negative battery cable. The fact that it happens when the bike makes a change of speed indicates it's probably a physical reaction to the inertia. The fact that it's getting worse only means the cable is getting looser and making less contact.

If it's not the battery cable, then it's something in the ignition circuit. All wires going to and from the TRE are suspect.

*Edit. It's also possible that one of these wires got routed the wrong way around the clutch cable and when the lever is pulled, that little bit of tension in the cable is putting pressure on some connection.