Motorcycle Oil VS. Automotive Oil
- Chip Beazley
- Veteran
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- Joined: Thu Feb 03, 2005 9:22 am
- Sex: Male
- Years Riding: 57
- My Motorcycle: 2014 H-D FLHTP, 2012 Suzuki C50T
- Location: Montgomery, Alabama
Once again I will inject my 2 cents worth for Shell Rotella T synthetic. Since it is specifically formulated for diesel engines there are none of the friction reducing modifiers added as opposed to automotive oils. It is designed to work in the higher temperatures and pressures exerted by a diesel engine it is an excellent choice for a hard working motorcycle engine especially if it is air cooled. The cost is $12 to $13 per gallon at your friendly local WalMart.
It works particurlarly well in engines where the gearbox and engine share the same oil because the long polymer chains in the formulation hold up well to the high stresses placed on the oil by the gears in the transmission.
It works particurlarly well in engines where the gearbox and engine share the same oil because the long polymer chains in the formulation hold up well to the high stresses placed on the oil by the gears in the transmission.
Chip
2014 H-D FLHTP Police
2012 Suzuki C50T
2014 H-D FLHTP Police
2012 Suzuki C50T
I remember hearing a couple of friends debating this issue once. They convinced each other that auto oil was just as good as moto oil. One of them totally trashed a Triumph Trophy 1200's gears by doing this. I ride a Honda and I figure if the little Japanese engineer who designed it were to tell me to put bourbon in my crankcase all I got to say is where is the Wild Turkey?
Greg

Greg
www.openroadenterprises.com
- Big B
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mobil one synthetic motorcycle oil. i change it depending on my riding habits of late. if i've been riding it hard in the city, or beating the crap out of it on some twisty roads, i'll shorten the interval to 3-4000 miles. if i've been doing a lot of long distance trips, then i'll stretch it out some (honda's recommendation is 8000 miles between oil changes)
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- flynrider
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I love hearing the scary stories about using car oil
I've been hearing them since I bought my first bike 26 yrs. ago.
Here's my scary story. My last two bikes had 67k and 78k miles on them when they left my garage for the last time. I used nothing but 20w-50 car oil (no friction modifiers) from break-in, to the day I sold them. Never once had to open up an engine on either bike.
More important than the brand of oil is that you change it regularly.

Here's my scary story. My last two bikes had 67k and 78k miles on them when they left my garage for the last time. I used nothing but 20w-50 car oil (no friction modifiers) from break-in, to the day I sold them. Never once had to open up an engine on either bike.
More important than the brand of oil is that you change it regularly.
Bikin' John
'93 Honda CB750 Nighthawk
'93 Honda CB750 Nighthawk
Rans s12flynrider wrote:'68 Cherokee 180biker_mit wrote: What do ya fly bro?:)
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it's better break the ground and head in to the wind then break the wind and head in to the ground
- Skier
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I don't think this could be repeated enough. Although I'd claim type of oil, not just brand. Change it!flynrider wrote: More important than the brand of oil is that you change it regularly.
[url=http://www.motoblag.com/blag/]Practicing the dark and forgotten art of using turn signals since '98.[/url]
don't use diesel oil in bike
My 2007 Yamaha v-star 1100 owners manual says "CAUTION In order to prevent clutch slipping (since the engine oil also lubricates the clutch), do not mix any chemical additives. do not use oils with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality than specified. In addition, do not use oils labeled "ENERGY CONSERVING II" or higher".
Enough said as far as I'm concerned.
Enough said as far as I'm concerned.
- macktruckturner
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