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Jadien · #21 Unread post by **Jadien** » Tue Jun 12, 2007 12:04 pm

In MSF, our instructor advised us to go by the pressure on the tire as opposed to the bike manufacturer's suggested pressure. His argument was that the manufaturer's pressure was to provide a "cushier" ride and that would lead to the tire wearing faster.

Anybody here disagree with that?

flynrider · Tue Jun 12, 2007 1:13 pm

Jadien wrote:In MSF, our instructor advised us to go by the pressure on the tire as opposed to the bike manufacturer's suggested pressure. His argument was that the manufaturer's pressure was to provide a "cushier" ride and that would lead to the tire wearing faster.

Anybody here disagree with that?

You bet there is. I think your instructor is full of it. The number on the sidewall is the tire manufacturer's maximum allowable pressure. It has nothing to do with the correct pressure for a particular bike. The number from the motorcycle manufacturer takes into account the weight limits of a particular bike as well as the suspension. The tire maker has no idea what kind of bike the tire will go on.

Inflating your tire to the maximum rated pressure is not smart. You will have a smaller contact patch, the tire will not flex properly in turns, and it will probably wear out the center line of the tread prematurely.

I'm surprised that an MFS instructor would give noobs such bad advice.

#23 Unread post by **dr_bar** » Tue Jun 12, 2007 1:36 pm

Yet, my Dunlops and my Avons were inflated differently...

Dunlop is a physically bigger tire and the psi requirement is different than my smaller Avons.

The bike dealer told me to go with the tire manufacturer's specs for my specific bike. They know how that tire will perform as opposed to the bike manufacturer that doesn't have a clue as to what make or model of tire I currently have...

Ask three different people, you'll get three different answers...

1: The bike mfg...
2: The tire mfg...
3: What's written on the sidewall...

Sev · #24 Unread post by **Sev** » Tue Jun 12, 2007 1:52 pm

niterider wrote:Sev are you motorcycle mechanic?

Yes, yes I am.

SilentComposer wrote:Well now I have a different problem. It seems even when I do get the engine warmed up and all. When I go to stop and am in first gear if I let it idle it usually stalls... Any reason why this could be happening? And yes I do have the clutch pulled in

What are you idling at once you're off the choke? If memory serves, ideal idle is around... 1250-1500 rpm. But I could be wrong. A low idle will cause it to stall when you get off the throttle.

And I agree 100% with what flyinrider had to say about tire pressures.

SilentComposer · Tue Jun 12, 2007 5:31 pm

It looks to be idling at about 900, is that why it could be stalling?[/quote]

Sev · #26 Unread post by **Sev** » Tue Jun 12, 2007 5:40 pm

I'd up it to 1250 and see what happens.

SilentComposer · Tue Jun 12, 2007 5:57 pm

Is there a downside to doing that? And just out of curiosity... How would one go about doing that?

Sev · #28 Unread post by **Sev** » Tue Jun 12, 2007 6:08 pm

There will be a knobby dial adjuster attached to the carbs. I believe it'll be near the left side fairing, but I could be wrong.

Adjusting the idle too high will cause the bike to react oddly when you release the throttle, the rpms will hang up, or drop suddenly.

Standard idle is between 1000 and 1500 rpm for sporty bikes. So, I can't forsee any problems with you dialing yours up a bit.

SilentComposer · Tue Jun 12, 2007 7:53 pm

Excellent, I'll try that tomorrow morning and see if it works.

I just have one more question. Sorry for all of this everyone, I just want to get my bike in working order... I don't want any mishaps on the road.

My oil light goes on when I turn my ignition key, I don't think it stays on though. Once I start riding I am pretty sure it goes off. What exactly does that mean? I have checked my oil, I have a sight glass and it's all the way full when it's cold and 5 minutes after I ride.

Appreciate any answers.

*Edit* when I have a sight glass do I want the oil to go all the way to the top mark?

ofblong · #30 Unread post by **ofblong** » Tue Jun 12, 2007 10:05 pm

SilentComposer wrote:Excellent, I'll try that tomorrow morning and see if it works.

I just have one more question. Sorry for all of this everyone, I just want to get my bike in working order... I don't want any mishaps on the road.

My oil light goes on when I turn my ignition key, I don't think it stays on though. Once I start riding I am pretty sure it goes off. What exactly does that mean? I have checked my oil, I have a sight glass and it's all the way full when it's cold and 5 minutes after I ride.

Appreciate any answers.

*Edit* when I have a sight glass do I want the oil to go all the way to the top mark?

everyones oil light comes on when you put the ignition key in and turn it. Its when the bike starts that the oil light should go out unless there is a problem.

Oil