Testing a Battery/Alternator with a Voltmeter...

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nitrus
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Some tips for charging system troubleshooting.

#21 Unread post by nitrus »

You can perform a poor man's load test by:

Parrallel at the BAT, check dcvolts while cranking the bike.
Unplug the ingnition coils or pull the plugs so the bike doesn't
start. Voltage should not drop below around 12.0.

Also you can do a Current Leakage/Systems Draw test by:

In series at the main fuse, on a 10Amp scale, Test for leakage
with the key off. Then turn the key on, Should be a negative #
if hooked up correctly, start the bike, and make sure the neg
# goes positive, and rises to a certain ampere, around 3,000rpm.
Be carefull not to blow your meter's fuse on this one, by using
a multimeter with an amp function with atleast 10amps scale.

Or you can check stator output by:

Locate the yellow wires coming out of the left hand crancase cover,
(where your stator is) You will only be able to perform this on
bikes without 3phase electromagnet charging systems. With the
meter set to ACV probe the yellow wires, lead to lead, 1-2,2-3,1-3.. you should 9-20 volts ac, with the connector plugged in, and 15 - 100 with
it unplugged, this is a general spec, but will tell you if your stator/rotor
are creating voltage..

hope this helps!!

-Ryan

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BuzZz
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#22 Unread post by BuzZz »

The best poorman's load tester is..... a load tester.

Cost me $30 at a local autoparts store, made by Solar(the battery charger people) and if you buy one off the Snap-On truck and peel the sticker off of it, it will look exactly like this, but cost well over $100....

Image

Image
No Witnesses.... :shifty:

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