Page 4 of 4
Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 9:26 am
by Seca Girl
Looks like you might need to re-check the label on Rotella, don't know if this means they've changed the forumula or not:
http://www.rotella.com/press/article_68.html
Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 10:21 am
by macktruckturner
I will allow experience, rather than press releases, to dictate my oil use. So long as my engine continues to run fine, not burn oil, and my transmission continues to shift as I expect it to - I'll stick with what I run.
Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 10:44 am
by oldschoolorange
I run straight 40 oil in my bike as I get it from work for pretty much free. That is the same oil the old 2 stroke detroits use
Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 12:59 am
by Meanie
You guys want to learn more about oils...go here--------->
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
Best automobile oil for motorcycles
Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 7:08 am
by norsseman
Have a new Kaw Vulcan 750 and Kaw KLR650 and plan on using
dino oil for the first 6K. From all my research on the net about
the only auto oil that holds it's viscosity almost as good as
many synthetics is GTX 10-40 (no moly) to mess up a wet clutch.
Kendall should be OK also as long as it is not Energy conserving.
Lookin for a good quality 90 weight oil for my chain...any recommendations?
Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 9:36 am
by flynrider
If you have an O-ring chain, you really don't need anything as heavy as 90 wt gear oil. That was standard practice for the non-sealed chains from the old days. With an O-ring, you can use a lighter (less sticky, less messy) lube to keep the link plates moving smoothly. Something like silicone spray lube or Chain Wax will attract less dirt than gear oil.
I've been using run of the mill silicone spray on my 750's chain since new. It's got 15K miles on it now and still looks great.
Posted: Thu Sep 14, 2006 1:17 am
by paul246
flynrider wrote:If you have an O-ring chain, you really don't need anything as heavy as 90 wt gear oil. That was standard practice for the non-sealed chains from the old days. With an O-ring, you can use a lighter (less sticky, less messy) lube to keep the link plates moving smoothly. Something like silicone spray lube or Chain Wax will attract less dirt than gear oil.
I've been using run of the mill silicone spray on my 750's chain since new. It's got 15K miles on it now and still looks great.
I could be wrong but I believe the 90 weight is intended more for the chain/sprocket interface, a heavy oil will prevent wear on the sprocket teeth better than a light oil or wax. My 2005 Honda XR650L manual still calls for a gear oil lube and the chain is an o-ring type.
How to apply 90 weight oil
Posted: Thu Sep 14, 2006 6:28 am
by norsseman
Thanks for your post on 90 weight oil. How do you apply 90w ? Is
a brush easier than applying it directly? What kind of a brush is
recommended? How do you get the entire chain lubed?
New KLR rider.
Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 1:10 am
by paul246
First, I thoroughly clean the chain. I then tie a bit of string around the chain to mark my start point. I just pour the oil into a small jar and apply a light coat with a narrow paint brush, making sure to coat the inside of the links that mesh with the sprockets. I don't get much dripping or slinging, as long as I don't over-apply.