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Sev · #31 Unread post by **Sev** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 2:38 am

That oil light is there to indicate oil pressure. The oil pressure is acheived through the means of a pump that is run off the engine. No running engine, no oil pressure, light comes on.

Once you start it up then the pressure builds rapidly and the light goes off.

The sight glass is to give you an "idea" of the level of the oil. You want it near the top in case something happens - you leak a little you burn a little, some just plain old dissapears. It's better to have a little too much (within those two lines) then not quite enough.

niterider · Wed Jun 13, 2007 2:58 am

(And I agree 100% with what flyinrider had to say about tire pressures.)
+1 more

SilentComposer · Wed Jun 13, 2007 6:38 am

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate all the information.

SilentComposer · Thu Jun 14, 2007 7:10 am

Well... I thought it was all solved.

Now when I go to change my idle speed I can't seem to settle it at 1250. When I try to adjust it, it either settles at 3000-2500 or keeps dropping until it stalls. I have tried adjusting it extremely slow... But the same thing keeps happening. My dad says the screw could just be wacky and that it's worn out so it slips when I put it near 1250. Any ideas?

mgdavis · #35 Unread post by **mgdavis** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:03 am

I sounds like it sat to long with fuel in it and the carbs gunked up. The next step I would take would be giving them a good cleaning.

Sev · #36 Unread post by **Sev** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 2:13 pm

+1 on the clean your carbs. UGH, I hate cleaning carbs

mgdavis · #37 Unread post by **mgdavis** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 3:27 pm

Don't let Sev scare you, it's not that bad. Get a manual, take your time, label everything. Pictures help. When I did mine, the worst part was getting the carbs out of the bike. It was all gravy after that.

Sev · #38 Unread post by **Sev** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 3:37 pm

mgdavis wrote:
Don't let Sev scare you, it's not that bad. Get a manual, take your time, label everything. Pictures help. When I did mine, the worst part was getting the carbs out of the bike. It was all gravy after that.

Damn boots, lol!

I just hate the smell of carb cleaner mostly.

SilentComposer · Thu Jun 14, 2007 6:24 pm

So I will definitely need the service manual for this one, right? I'll order it from Kawasaki ASAP.

Thanks again everyone.

scan · #40 Unread post by **scan** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 2:17 am

From the scan school of avoiding big work - when I got my bike it was gunked a bit in the carb department. Now keep in mind, my bike hs 4 carbs, so a rebuild did not sound good to me. So I tried the several fill ups of premium and rode the bike in the higher RPM (not red-line or anything like that) as much as I could. It cleared itself. I do not think that will always work, but if you have some time before you can get that work done, it might be worth your time to try to force it to clean itself. If something is jammed open or closed, that might not do a thing, but if there is a little varnish built up, a few tanks of premium might just do the trick. I say premium because most premium has extra cleaners in it - also, pour-in carb cleaner might help, but I've never used that on my bike.

Oil