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The Crimson Rider® wrote:

Mintbread wrote:

The Crimson Rider® wrote: nope, if you have the right tool. you won't need to hit it w/ a hammer. or maybe you still do

Well said...

actually... like that pic holiday posted. i believe that is what they'll use. so no hammer needed.

Verm, that tool is basically a wrench that spins the 'big nut' (heh, I said big nut).

Youll probably still need a hammer because those two rings are probably clamped together nice and tight. A hammer/screwdriver/chanel locks will work just as good as that tool.

And explain to me how your mechanic knows the right setting for you? Wouldnt the logical thing be to set it to whatever feels best for you?

(heh, I said big nut).

uh huhuhuhuh big nut huhuhuh

TR7 wrote: And explain to me how your mechanic knows the right setting for you? Wouldnt the logical thing be to set it to whatever feels best for you?

i didn't go to my mechanic. i went to different shop.

he set it up for how he would like it. he said try it and comeback to him if i want it changed. he said there's no magic number. i was surprised that even the static sag doesn't have a constant range. he said to just observe how the bike reacts... does it turn better, turn harder, turn better on left than right etc. then comeback to him for tuning it based on my feedback.

i have to know what it's doing and what i want changed. he said he'll work on it but i have to tell him what i want. basically, i have to explain to him what the bike is doing wrong so if i can't tell what it's doing wrong then he can't really help me. it's also hard since he'll do what you want him to but if you thought wrong... then you'll have an even crappier setup.

but on the bright side... this will give me a chance to learn to become a developmental rider.

Channel locks would work (if they are thin enough to fit under there).

Verm, adjust it yourself. Before you do, make note of its position now and how it rides. Make an adjustment, then test ride. Make note again how it rides. If you need to adjust, keep doing that, adjust-test-note, over until you get it where you want it. No need to take it back and forth to a garage. The guy there will do the same for you, adjust-you test it-tell him how it feels-he adjust again. The only difference is he may be able to eyeball in less tries than you can. The sooner you do your own work on it, the more often you can adjust it when you feel like it, at your own house.

Edit: Verm, we adjust our bikes in the garage with that tool from the kit. It takes longer getting the tool out from the pouch under the seat than it does to adtually twist the thingy. However, as already mentioned, we can also adjust it using a screw driver. Luckily, no hammers have been needed

The Crimson Rider® wrote:this will give me a chance to learn to become a developmental rider.

A what?

Mintbread wrote:

The Crimson Rider® wrote:this will give me a chance to learn to become a developmental rider.

A what?

See, right now, Verm (Crim?) is Developmentally Delayed...m'kayyy?

did i just read that you're paying someone to turn the adjustment nuts on your rear suspension?



I just want to be sure...


By the way, I can see why someone would use a hammer and screwdriver to turn that nut. Those tools they give you in the kit that comes with the bike have really short handles and generate almost no torque. I almost busted a capiliary trying to turn mine into the 6/7 setting. A hammer and screwdriver, or some kind of extender for the handle of the shock tool would have been helpful.

i dunno how much to adjust.

so after i figure it out what my bike is doing... i will explain to him what's hapenning and he will make adjustements based what i told him.

let's say my bike turns better left, then he will make adjustments to correct it.

of course, me getting a good setup will highly depend on my perception and so i have to be good at understanding my bike.

The Crimson Rider® wrote:i dunno how much to adjust.

so after i figure it out what my bike is doing... i will explain to him what's hapenning and he will make adjustements based what i told him.

let's say my bike turns better left, then he will make adjustments to correct it.

of course, me getting a good setup will highly depend on my perception and so i have to be good at understanding my bike.

Neither does your mechanic. Buying the tool (if you dont already have one) and adjusting it yourself with an adjust-ride-adjust-ride method that others have suggested is the best way to go. I bet you could get a good setup in a day rather than having to ride back and forth to the shop. This is really one of those 'fill your tires with air' kind of mechanical jobs.