Saturday
I decided to take the DB to Stratford today on the bike. His ex-GF is living with her mother out that way and he has been wanting to visit her for over a week now. He was planning to stay a week or two, or three, he told me, or maybe just a few days. Maybe, he'd go for a month, or maybe not. Offering to give him a lift over to his GF's place had several distinct advantages for me, personally. It got him off my hands for a bit (he probably wouldn't have been able to afford the journey had I not offered to take him) and it gave me a good excuse to get on the bike and go for one of my favourite rides. It also met his immediate need.
His immediate need really doesn’t bear thinking about. He told me he needed to be with his ex-GF after the death of their two-year old baby boy. At least, his GF claimed that the boy was his, but only after he had died. Until that time she had claimed it belonged to the guy who had replaced the DB in her affections. I’m not sure I know how to think about this. Discovering 'truth' in the DB's world is like finding a drop of water in the Pacific ocean.
In any case, I cannot get my head around the kind of crisis-ridden life the lad leads.
The means of the baby’s death doesn’t bear thinking about either. The assumed father had broken up with the boy’s mother, ‘kidnapped’ the child and then neglected him while he got off his head on ecstasy. The baby had found a couple of ecstasy tablets which he'd left lying around and had eaten them. He died in hospital about five days later. This is the story the DB has told me. At first, I thought it all sounded too much like an episode of Eastenders to be true but now I’m not sure. It all hangs together rather too well.
I think the DB is genuinely upset about this (it really is hard to tell - he talks about himself endlessly and manages to reveal nothing.) He has a lot of genuine human feeling, but there is also a fantasy level at which he gets off on the drama of his own life. He wants to settle down - I'm sure that's genuine - but it’s hard for him to give up all the excitement and self-aggrandisement that goes with the crazy existence that he has carved out for himself. I can see the excitement, and to some extent I can understand it. I have a tendency to live for the highs and get bored easily with the day-to-day stuff, too. Fortunately, I haven't had to concoct my dramas out of the same kind of nightmares the DB grew up with and now manages to live with on a daily basis.
OK. That's enough. I don’t want to think any more about it.
On the way to Stratford, we stopped off at Aston Clinton and nipped into
On Yer Triumph so I could buy an oil filter - and a spanner for fitting it. (Practically everything on a bike these days comes with a ‘special tool’ to do the job – and a price. Have you noticed?) Over in France a couple of weeks ago, I put about 1,800 miles on the clock (more than I expected). That’s 1,800 miles since the dealers fitted some new piston rings and I haven’t had the opportunity to change the oil since. That's been bothering me. Having the rings changed is not like running the bike in for the first time, but, even so, an early oil change is necessary, I'm thinking and it's way overdue.
It was a good run down to Stratford on some familiar roads. I enjoyed the ride as much as I had hoped. The B4030 between Bicester and Edstone is a real favourite of mine - it's not a racer's road, and it is not exceptionally attractive, but it has a bit of everything and... well, I like it. It's quirky. One old guy, en route, has faked a speed camera and set it up just inside his garden to deter vehicles from speeding through his village. It probably works.
It was, however, with a certain degree of relief that I found our destination and delivered up my package to the waiting GF (and her mother) safe and sound. I hope he has a good couple of weeks but in the quiet of their secluded Cotswold village I suspect he will be bored out of his mind. That probably means he will be back knocking on my door in a couple of days' time.
I was ‘under orders’ from some work colleagues to get some pictures of Stratford, so I dutifully rode into town and flashed the camera about a bit. But I absolutely refused to photograph ‘Shakespeare’s birthplace’. Normally, you can't get near it for the tourists. The building itself looks as though it's been alomost worn away by the endless bombardment of photons launched at it from the barrage of Japanese, British and American flash guns that are trained on it day-by-day; year-by-year. Today, you could see it. You could even get near it. The town was, in fact, alarmingly quiet (meaning merely that you didn't have to elbow your way through the crowds.)
I’m a Shakespeare nut, I’m afraid. I have a collection of almost every Shakespeare video or DVD that has ever been released on the English market and that’s a lot of videos. And I spend a fair bit of my spare time in theatres watching the stuff; so while I was in Stratford, I took the opportunity to spend a blissfully nerdy hour in the Shakespeare bookshop opposite the revered birthplace. A whole bookshop full of nothing but books by, on, or about Shakespeare or Shakespearan performance! It is not something I would normally get a chance to do as I usually come here in the company of other bikers who usually have other priorities (like getting on their bikes and riding away again - fast.)
I did get a photo of the canal basin in the centre of the town, though.
Stratford upon Avon
Moving on from the subject of Shakespeare, I have to say that Stratford-upon-Avon has one particularly fine quality to recommend it. It is the most bike-friendly town I know. Right in the centre, next to the shopping area, there is a bike park for over 200 bikes. And each marked parking bay has a ground anchor. Stevenage, where I work, manages four bike parking spaces, which are scattered accross the town in inconvenient and hard-to-find positions. None of the bays have any provision for security.
On the way back from Stratford I stopped off at Chipping Camden. Now, Chipping Camden is one place where it is well worth getting out the camera. And with a bit of luck and good weather there is every chance of capturing the town in all its mellow loveliness. In summer the walls of its buildings glow golden in the sunlight. Now, that it's mid-October and the sun is low in the sky it isn’t quite at its best, but at least there aren’t so many people around and it is still worth a visit.
Cotswold towns and villages attract visitors in their thousands every year because they are just so exceptionally pretty. And all that prettiness may not be unrelated to the staggering sums of money their wealthy inhabitants must spend on their homes and gardens every year. The houses are built traditionally in a deep, golden sandstone. And gardening, a national obsession, is nowhere practiced with such devotion and energy as out here among the Cotswold Hills.
Chipping Camden
Until I got there, I had completely forgotten that Chipping Camden was one of the places that Di visited in the last year of her life. We spent a whole day there, wandering around, visiting tea-rooms, just walking and laughing and having a really happy and very funny time of it. Trying to get her wheelchair on and off the local busses was a hoot. Everything we did in that last year, we did at an exceptional pitch of intensity, and all that strength of feeling persisted in my memory for a long time. It has faded now - at least from my everyday mind. Life has become more mundane - which, in some ways, in a relief but ,in other ways, a source of deep regret. I’m not sure I want those memories to fade like that. I'm not sure I want that year to become just like any other in my mind. The memories are still there, but they have lost a lot of their depth, their sense of significance. A stimulus, like riding into Chipping Camden and walking about the streets can bring them briefly back, but it's not the same.
And a question keeps presenting itself to me: why do I keep finding myself travelling to places we visited in our last year together? It’s strange but time after time apparently chance events keep occuring which draw me back to those very places - like the DB's need to see his ex-GF, for instance.
More Chipping Camden
And yet more Chipping Camden
The Cotswolds look great in autumn
That is some pretty spectacular thatching on that house
The ride back home to Hertfordshire wasn't quite so pleasant as the way out. It seemed endless - endless and uncomfortable - and at least three times as long even though I came back exactly the same way as I went. Once I had come through Chipping Norton, the way was a slog. Even the B4030 didn't do it for me.
I had hoped to get to Hemel Hempsted by nightfall, but no such luck. By the time it was getting dark I had only reached Aylesbury. And that was a pain. Aylesbury, I do not love. Getting from one side of this wretchedly complicated town to the other always makes me feel like I’m trapped in some Kafkaesque nightmare – especially at night.
You follow the signs around the ring road, or you go through the town. Either way it's the same: you ride past street after street of identical 1950s council houses or 1930s semis. You pass over one identikit looking crossroads after another. It just goes on and on. It's not such a big town. Why is it such a pain in the arse to ride through?
After you've been riding through it for what seems like half-an-hour (though I'm sure it's not) you begin to get the feeling that you are trapped here for ever and ever, doomed to pass by the same buildings over and over on a never-ending loop. And the Daytona is a real pig in circumstances like this. By the time I did eventually get out on to the open road again my hands had nearly fallen off at the wrist.
So, I was very glad when I eventually got home. After parking the bike and getting out of my leathers, I was in no mood to do anything other than slump on the couch and feel sorry for myself. But there was one consolation: at least I didn’t have to listen to the latest instalment of the DB’s very own soap opera.
Sunday
News from a small town.
Nothing raises people’s spirits in a small town like Hitchin more than discovering that they have a small engineering disaster happening in their very midst - especially one for which the local council appears to be entirely responsible.
I discovered this as I rode through the town this morning. I hadn’t wanted to go for another long ride today but was up for a short spin out into the countryside. I got on my gear and rode the short way across town when I saw this.
Hmmmm!
(I’ve started carrying my camera with me most places I go. You never know when it is going to come in handy!)
A burst water main, I thought. Water was pouring out of the ground and running down Hermitage Road, in the town centre. Half way down it was accumulating in the dip where the drainage system (which almost certainly had not been cleaned out since last November) was failing to cope with it. The owners of the small businesses on either side of the road were peering from their doorways with some pretty obviously worried looks on their faces; Dick, the photographer from the local rag was already there hopping about with his camera as gleefully as his not inconsiderable bulk would allow. Then the police started to arrived in their vehicles. They came in at the lower end of the road and drove through the accumulating waters as though to prove some sort of obscure point or other before going up the hill to stare solemnly at the fountain that had appeared at its top.
Police arrive in Hermitage Road
Later in the afternoon when I had returned from my ride I went back to take a look. A fire engine had now arrived and was pumping some of the water out of the road. I spoke to one of the fire officers who was redirecting the Sunday traffic - what there was of it. He told me that the run off water was being dumped into a ‘nearby brook’. Several worthy members of Hitchin society were standing nearby - I recognized them. They looked disapprovingly at him as they realised the ‘brook’ he was referring to was none other than mighty River Hiz (cough…) upon the banks of whose torrential waters (ahem…) this uptight (sorry, 'upright') little town is built.
The fireman then told me (with a smirk) that no, it wasn’t a burst water main. A group of council workmen had arrived earlier that morning to so some planned maintenance. They had been sent out to replace a damaged valve in the mains supply. So keen were they in their work that they forgot that it might be a good idea to isolate the water in the system first. Too late, they discovered their mistake, and too late too, they made the further discovery that other valves had failed as well and that it was impossible to cut off the water supply. One more success for the local council's Maintenance Team to chalk up on their wall.
