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ok..... long to short.... been restoring awhile: carbs been professionally cleaned, new battery, new intake manifolds (sealed as well), carbs synced poor man's method (feeler gauge style on fly's), new throttle cable, new fuel line, petcock functional (checked), new plugs (have spark), new oil (was..now with gas...dammit!), rewired fuse box, wired in new start button, polished the crap out of her and lotsa eBaying LOL...anyhow: had it started many times with full choke, idles decent but cylinder 3 is bone cold with choke, close choke and heat appears (possibly from others?), runs steady but gas gets in oil, assume from #3 (compression is good)... side note: when I prep'd carb bowls fuel did at 1st spill out of #3 carb venturi (maybe stuck float valve?) HELP! assuming I should go after carb #3. Suggestions? pro said carbs were heavily corroded!

Sounds like a leaking float valve. Did they replace them when it was rebuilt? The valve is leaking, filling up the carb, running into the intake tract and filling the cylinder, which is then getting past the rings and making its way into the engine oil. You can try and lightly tap on the float bowl incase there is some debri between the seat and valve.
Is there any rust in your tank that could be causing this? If so, put on an inline fuel filter and think about a rust remover or Kreem Kit for the tank.

well... carbs were "cleaned" by my boss' race shop, so I'm not exactly sure how far they went, he initially told me buy him lunch, then he reported back saying OMG the corrosion found by my carb guy...LOL...really unsure, not sure what if anything was replaced, mind you this bike sat since 92... said $50 a carb ($200) , but he aint worried if'n I don't pay up. He's a great guy btw named Guy lol.. anyhow believe I'll check the #3 out myself, just use others as a reference as to not screw up carb...I think I can handle it ty for advice... btw check out boss' site www.tigerracingproducts.com it's radically quick stuff... safe to say that cylinder wont fire if flooding? That's why it's cold? Bike is just to clean to part with tank is in decent shape,but plan to cream once running good

ok... cleaned carbs myself this time....found lotsa crap (sediment) in #3's main jet chamber, cleaned all bowls and other main jets and as many air &/or fuel passages as able.... clean as a whistle now! Installed an inline fuel filter. Carbs aren't as difficult as I assumed Changed gas saturated oil out.... Well, #3 cylinder is burning now, but oil is still getting gas in it! I'm at a loss, bike idles nicely...full choke initially and then fully closed at idle. Where the hell is this gas coming from, especially now assuming that its burning properly in all 4 cylinders? Bowls appeared to float at proper level when I preped be4 install of carb back onto bike. HMMMM? Any suggestions welcomed ...... Wait float valve for #3 did kinda hangup a bit when slightly raising float, kinda recall having 3 and 4 out for comparisons and being unsure which was which upon re-install. Now mind you, when initially started, #4 was cold until giving carb #4 quite a few raps with screwdriver handle end. hmm, I'm thinking all new float valves, seats looked ok.

The float needles and seats come as a set when you purchase them. Are the needles tip rubber or metal. If they arerubbber, make sure there is a perfect tip on them. They are bad when you can see a circular indention in the rubber.
Stop beating yourself up over this problem and buy new needles/seats. If the OEM is too expensive, K&L offer many parts cheaper.

I see no abnormalties in valves and yes they r rubber tipped. I've decided to rebuild with K & L's ... thanks brother! Got'm torn down awaiting parts. Done beating head on wall Thanks for your input, very much appreciated. Scott

Curious as to how it goes! Drop a line.

Will do buddy... gotta track down parts... bidding on eBay rt now, will go from there... have a great week

Well, won 3 of 4 rebuild kits from eBay, rebuilt 2,3,4,and just cleaned snot outta 1 (original), it never gave me a prob be4. Ok so carbs are back in. Started up and NOW finally no more fuel in crank (oil). Valve seat o-rings were flatened and not sealing. New were so tight I had lube with gas to get'm in place, and lucked out there was somehow an extra seat o-ring in one kit. Like an "O Ring" was in garage with a few Buds in me and I went to put'r up on center stand and droped her! Man that happened quick, I can see how ppl do it, even the experienced. Well, after removing front rt turnsignal, and straigtening rear brake pedal. Ok, took it for a spin: loosing mid range rpm's...goes flat; no gety up! gonna fool with clutch adjust knowing it was what I messed with last, just to get it better in limits. After all this 3rd cylinder manifold still remains cooler to touch comparitively. Any quick tips for clutch adjust? I place it within what I (w/manual refernce) assume it shoud be, and as in 1st with clutch pulled, still get rotation from rear tire (on stand). Should there be absoulutely no movement at all with clutch in? And if clutch slips, would it not cause rpm's to rev not stay flat? sorry so lenghty a post