Total Motorcycle Community Forums

Still dont' have my 360 running. I've put a lot of time, and money into it now (well, a lot for me).

Got a new starter put on, and a whole new shifter column deal...The guy at the shop said the electric start works fine, but that my battery didn't have enough of a charge to start it. I manage to kickstart it, and drive it around for a bit, before it dies, and cannot be restarted. I don't know much, but it sounds like a stater issue to me...Just a few hours ago though, I fully charged the same, new battery, but it still struggles and will not start...What do I do now? I'm sick of taking this thing into the shop.

If the battery no longer holds a charge, then it sounds like you need to get a new battery, or at least have your current battery checked by a Battery Shop.

Stator could be a problem, in which case you should be able to get a new aftermarket one for your bike.

Just as a thought though, did you check your fuel level when it died on you?

it's happened to me before, where I'm looking all over for what's wrong, thinking the bike has a terminal problem, when it just turns out that it was out of gas.

WhyteGryphon wrote:If the battery no longer holds a charge, then it sounds like you need to get a new battery, or at least have your current battery checked by a Battery Shop.

Stator could be a problem, in which case you should be able to get a new aftermarket one for your bike.

Just as a thought though, did you check your fuel level when it died on you?

it's happened to me before, where I'm looking all over for what's wrong, thinking the bike has a terminal problem, when it just turns out that it was out of gas.

No, it has gas. I wish that were the problem. :p

Damn, just got this battery a month or 2 ago. Could it lose ability to hold a charge that quickly?

All Honda twins from the 70's will not run on a low or dead battery the 350 where set up so if the battery died or was low than it only ran on one cylinder. Bad idea that would cause many problem when people would force it to stay running ending up ruining the other cylinder.

Now for the 360 they fixed the problem so it wouldn't run at all. "THANKS HONDA"

Once you get the bike running again check the voltage at the battery terminals with a voltage meter> should be 12.5- 13.5 volts if not then you have a charging problem. Check your Rectifier first these are know for many different problem including charging & Throttle bog at mid RPMS.

Now for your starter. It takes a full 12 volts of power to even crank these very inefficient starters. if you have no charge coming from your alternator then forget about the starter.

Does you bike still have the option of turning the head light off? If so then always turn it off to start the bike. It take all three of the power leads to run the starter.

Good Luck!!!

And Post Back with all details.

Mike

I have a question about starters. Is it possible to mod a starter from a later model bike to fit an older one?? Just a thought... seems like good starters *and* electricals for old bikes get harder and harder to find.

I don't know about moding a starter from another model to fit yours but if it fits and works post it.

What I do is send the old starter out and have the coils rewrapped and new brushes & springs installed that’s about as up to date you can get them.

One fixed starter at my local Car Electric & Motor repair shop cost $20.00 not bad and after that rebuild I haven't had to have one rebuilt for a bike yet.

Quick 350 wrote:All Honda twins from the 70's will not run on a low or dead battery the 350 where set up so if the battery died or was low than it only ran on one cylinder. Bad idea that would cause many problem when people would force it to stay running ending up ruining the other cylinder.

Now for the 360 they fixed the problem so it wouldn't run at all. "THANKS HONDA"

Once you get the bike running again check the voltage at the battery terminals with a voltage meter> should be 12.5- 13.5 volts if not then you have a charging problem. Check your Rectifier first these are know for many different problem including charging & Throttle bog at mid RPMS.

Now for your starter. It takes a full 12 volts of power to even crank these very inefficient starters. if you have no charge coming from your alternator then forget about the starter.

Does you bike still have the option of turning the head light off? If so then always turn it off to start the bike. It take all three of the power leads to run the starter.

Good Luck!!!

And Post Back with all details.

Mike

Well it ran a few days ago...So I'm gonna say charging problem would probably be the most likely...Guess I'll buy a new battery tomorrow.

before you go and bye a new battery. through the old one on a charge just enough to get the bike started.

Once the bikes started and running with out the aid of the throttle. Check the voltage at the battery leads and see if its between 12.5-13.5.

If it is then your battery might still be good but your charging system is not working.

start checking all wire leads and connections for looseness or corrosion. ( these bike are very finigy about constant voltage)

If all wires look good then move on to the alternator or stator as many call it. Remove the inspecting plate on the left side. Look in and see if there is any rust or oil build up in there.

If so then it's time to pick up a Manuel and read about cleaning the contact points of the alternator. If there's any oil then you'll need to replace the crank seal on that side.

When the crank seal leaks it doesn't mean you'll see oil leaking on the ground it will take time to build up in the alternator housing.

Good Luck!!!

Keep us posted!

Mike

Quick 350 wrote:before you go and bye a new battery. through the old one on a charge just enough to get the bike started.

Once the bikes started and running with out the aid of the throttle. Check the voltage at the battery leads and see if its between 12.5-13.5.

If it is then your battery might still be good but your charging system is not working.

start checking all wire leads and connections for looseness or corrosion. ( these bike are very finigy about constant voltage)

If all wires look good then move on to the alternator or stator as many call it. Remove the inspecting plate on the left side. Look in and see if there is any rust or oil build up in there.

If so then it's time to pick up a Manuel and read about cleaning the contact points of the alternator. If there's any oil then you'll need to replace the crank seal on that side.

When the crank seal leaks it doesn't mean you'll see oil leaking on the ground it will take time to build up in the alternator housing.

Good Luck!!!

Keep us posted!

Mike

Holy God. That would be a good idea I'm sure, but I don't really know the first thing about bikes. I think I'd rather take it back to the shop and have him look at it...Damn my inability! Thanks for your help though, It is appreciated.

You can get a $25 multimeter from sears and it will be useful for the duration of its life. You bought this old bike ... might as well give it a go.

All you have to do is take a multimeter (or simple voltmeter), start the bike up and check to see if the battery is reading over 13.5 while running. Very simple ! Maybe you even have a friend that will let you borrow one?