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Is it suspost to be a aluminum crush whasher or a thick steal whasher?

Thanks

Not familiar with your particular bike, but I'd bet big money that it's the exact same aluminum washer that's on my 2 honda bikes (1986 250 and 1995 750, exact same washer and 17mm drain plug on each).

Steel bolt, aluminum pan, you probably don't want a steel washer, the soft alloy one will definately distort (to seal), rather than the pan distorting (bad).

You can re-use it a few times, and also please don't over-tighten the bolt.

Thanks, i used the alum crush whasher, and torgued to 22 lb ft as book says

And so much for having the pros do the work! Being a new bike. I had the dealer to the 1000 mile oil change and the tech left the whasher out! Amazing it didn't leak. I discovered it on 3500 mile change.

If you want it done right, you gotta do it yourself.

I agree!

That stinks they left out the drainplug washer....imagine what could happen when they remove axles/wheels or (gasp) open up the motor!! I found mangled bolt heads on the front axle clamp bolts on my Nighthawk, which had only been serviced by a honda dealer, until I bought it.

yep, sure makes me wonder about letting them replace my rear tire. going to need one in another 3000 miles or so.

J.R. Bob Dobbs wrote:I agree!

That stinks they left out the drainplug washer....imagine what could happen when they remove axles/wheels or (gasp) open up the motor!! I found mangled bolt heads on the front axle clamp bolts on my Nighthawk, which had only been serviced by a honda dealer, until I bought it.

After a few bad experiences like that in my early riding career, I just gave up on motorcycle shops altogether. I always seemed to have new problems after I got the bike back from the shop. About the only shop I see is the motorcycle tire shop. The do nothing but tires and have always done a good job. If anything else goes wrong, I drag out the shop manual.