Maunal Transmission

[pakole]

Is there anybody out there whose first manual transmission motor vehicle was a motorcycle? I am having a lot of trouble getting the choke and throttle thing down. I took the MSF BRC, and the instructor told me that I should pretend that I am squeezing out a towel which is helping me out. This advice does help me, but I was wonder if anybody who actually has been in my position could help me out.

At my current ability, I usually stall like 1-2 times before I rev the engine too much and jump from a stop instead of having a smooth transitiion from a stop. Thanks for your time.

[jonnythan]

I drive a manual Civic so I didn't have too much trouble learning the transmission on a bike.

However, I have no idea what a choke is for. I'm hoping they cover this in MSF

[Nalian]

The choke is really only for starting up the bike - after it's started and warmed up it should be in and you shouldn't have to worry about it.

To work on the clutch, you are just going to have to spend time with it. Keep doing those practice exercises you did in the MSF course where you rock back on your heels..slowly let the clutch out until it rolls you barely onto your feet, then you pull the clutch back in and push back to your heels again.

While you're doing that, keep your head up and eyes forward. Very very slowly let it out while counting to around 5, so that you start to get a feel for where it engages without looking at the clutch. 1 should be the clutch as far back as you can get it - 5 would be almost all the way out. Once you start to get a feel for where that friction zone engages, you'll be able to start more smoothly because you'll be able to hold the clutch right before that point, and when the time comes to go its just a very short movement before the bike starts to go.

Does that make sense/help any?

[buddhacide]

My first vehicle ever is the bike i'm driving now. I was having alot of trouble with the clutch and stalling (last week, lol) until I learned to use a little throttle before very slowly releasing the clutch (previously I was doing it in the reverse order). Ever since I've had it down. Check out my thread titled "Clutch=Anger", and look for a post towards the end (I dont remember the posters name), he drove home the concept for me. Other posters in that thread were a huge help as well.

The choke you only need for a few seconds when starting the bike cold. I find I dont need to use it at all if the bikes been running recently. Just pull it out when you start the bike, let it go for a few seconds, push about halfway in for a few seconds, and then close it. Thats what it takes for me anyway. The bike should then be at a steady idle.

[pakole]

I am a idiot. I meant to say clutch. Thanks for everyone's help.

[1will]

haha. well THAT would explain your problems if the clutch and choke are confused wouldn't it?

kidding

seriously though the friction zone is different on all bikes. you have to get a feel for it on your own ride. just keep reminding yourself that you really have to EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEASE it out (that's right, ease with 15 e's).

at the same time that you are juuust getting into the friction zone you need to apply throttle edit: also gradually!. if you continue to to ease the the clutch much further into the friction zone without applying throttle you will likely stall.

practice practice practice slipping the clutch while applying some throttle, and then easing it the rest of the way out as you get moving and are safe from a stall.

make sure you practice this facing uphill on some safe neighborhood streets. you don't want to be out in traffice struggling to get moving on an incline. don't ask me how i know! (the trick is use the rear brake to keep you from rolling back, and that way your right hand is free to really focus on applying that throttle. clutch and throttle coordination are even more critical when starting off uphill).


hope this helps! i am still working the kinks out myself. i was in your shoes only 150 miles ago!

p.s. if your bike allows it, adjust your clutch lever to a comfortable position. this doesn't do anything to the mechanics of your bike. it's like adjusting the steering wheel to a position that's comfortable for you to use it.

[1will]

I drive a manual Civic so I didn't have too much trouble learning the transmission on a bike.

However, I have no idea what a choke is for. I'm hoping they cover this in MSF

choke is for starting carbureted engines when cold. it restricts airflow to the engine causing the carbs to draw in more fuel, allowing easier combustion until the engine is warm.

choke is the least of your worries. especially if your bike is fuel injected.

[Shorts]

Well, when I learned to drive a stick in my friend's car in high school, she said "like a see-saw...like a see-saw" as I slowly lowered the accelerator foot and raised the clutch foot.

So now, that's how I drive a stick shift, like a see-saw


As for a motorcycle, I guess it's not so much like a see-saw like a car is.

As mentioned above, practice finding the friction zone on the clutch. Repeat it over and over and over until you get hang of the feel of when the bike will need throttle. Then add in a litte throttle. Just practice starts over and over.

Keep at it, you'll find it.

[svi40]

I learned on an old Ford tractor.

Then again, just leave it at 1500 rpm and its just about impossible to stall.

[icariz83]

I find bikes easier to shift than cars. However I've been riding bikes longer than driving cars.

But I agree, the point at which the clutch engages is somewhat bothersome.

On my Daytona it doesn't engage til you're almost halfway out and on my SV it's immediate. Somewhat different when jumping from one bike to the other.

Just keep practicing and you'll get it down eventually.