81 Maxim 650 will not stay running
81 Maxim 650 will not stay running
I recently got a 81 maxim with only 2k miles on it that had been sitting for the last couple of years. I started it up and ran it for about 5 minutes. I changed the oil and added about a gallon of gas to the nearly empty tank. Now when I start it, it dies after about 10 sec and if I touch the throttle it will die. Someone told me that I needed to pull the carbs and clean them as well as the tank. Does this sound right? If so, how difficult is it?
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TechTMW
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Yes, the carbs need a thorough cleaning.
It's not hard but requires meticulous attention to detail, and you must also have the cash to replace seals and o-rings that may be worn out.
About once a week, someone like you (Who has bought a bike that's been sitting) posts asking the same questions. They proceed to tear down the carbs "Clean" them and put them back together - but they still have poor running symptoms. We chase our tails looking for other problems,but the truth is, the person simply didn't do a thorough job cleaning the carbs and they don't want to take them back apart. They refuse to believe that they did a bad job and chase their tails searching for any other reason for the bike's faulty running.
If you are unfamiliar with the architecture of the carburettor (Including the various parts, seals and circuits) I would suggest getting the professionally cleaned by a garage with a sonic parts cleaner. Second best option is a chemical dip.
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The rest of the fuel system also needs to be gone through. If you use a flashlight and look inside the tank, you should be able to see if it's very rusty/ or if there are bits of dirt and rust floating around in there.
If it's rusty, you have the option of leaving it as it is, or coating the tank with a special coating to prevent further rusting. (Wurth and Por-15 make the two best products for this on the market, IMO)
You also need to replace the fuel lines. Replace all rubber lines, including Vacuum lines. Finally, even if you clean tbhe tank, it would be wise to install an inline fuel filter to prevent any more junk from getting into your carbs.
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Finally, when you are done with the carbs, before you put them back on, you need to make sure the valve clearances are in spec. (buy a manual for your bike to tell you how) Once your valves are in spec, replace the carbs, synchronize them, and then your bike should run just fine.
It's not hard but requires meticulous attention to detail, and you must also have the cash to replace seals and o-rings that may be worn out.
About once a week, someone like you (Who has bought a bike that's been sitting) posts asking the same questions. They proceed to tear down the carbs "Clean" them and put them back together - but they still have poor running symptoms. We chase our tails looking for other problems,but the truth is, the person simply didn't do a thorough job cleaning the carbs and they don't want to take them back apart. They refuse to believe that they did a bad job and chase their tails searching for any other reason for the bike's faulty running.
If you are unfamiliar with the architecture of the carburettor (Including the various parts, seals and circuits) I would suggest getting the professionally cleaned by a garage with a sonic parts cleaner. Second best option is a chemical dip.
-----------------------------
The rest of the fuel system also needs to be gone through. If you use a flashlight and look inside the tank, you should be able to see if it's very rusty/ or if there are bits of dirt and rust floating around in there.
If it's rusty, you have the option of leaving it as it is, or coating the tank with a special coating to prevent further rusting. (Wurth and Por-15 make the two best products for this on the market, IMO)
You also need to replace the fuel lines. Replace all rubber lines, including Vacuum lines. Finally, even if you clean tbhe tank, it would be wise to install an inline fuel filter to prevent any more junk from getting into your carbs.
------------------------------
Finally, when you are done with the carbs, before you put them back on, you need to make sure the valve clearances are in spec. (buy a manual for your bike to tell you how) Once your valves are in spec, replace the carbs, synchronize them, and then your bike should run just fine.
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Stratus311
- Elite
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Sat May 27, 2006 9:07 am
I agree. I was one of these people. I had a pretty major carb-cleaning disorder. But with a little guidance, TechTMW really helped me with my issues.About once a week, someone like you (Who has bought a bike that's been sitting) posts asking the same questions. They proceed to tear down the carbs "Clean" them and put them back together - but they still have poor running symptoms. We chase our tails looking for other problems,but the truth is, the person simply didn't do a thorough job cleaning the carbs and they don't want to take them back apart. They refuse to believe that they did a bad job and chase their tails searching for any other reason for the bike's faulty running.
Actually, I DID have to pull my carbs several times to get them good and clean. I also had a problem with a cracked carb boot that was letting lots of fresh air in where it shouldn't. Looking back, if you're not too familiar with the carbs, I would just have them cleaned by a pro. Although, tearing my carbs apart several times DID give me a better understanding of them.
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"Fighting for peace is like screwing for virginity."
“When you step on the brakes your life is in your foot's hands”
-George Carlin