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I just bought a used bike for my second bike. It's a 1994 Fzr600. The bike needs work and I new that buying it, but figured that I could fix it up and have it ready for next season. Well when I test rode the bike all I did was to take it up the block and shift it through all six gears. The engine lugged a little, but I figured it was just because I was shifting low and not giving it a whole lot of gas. I did notice however I had to get the rpms up to about 4k in first just to pull off, or else the bike would stall. Did'nt think much of it, just that I would have to get used to the friction zone.

Well, my friend took me to pick it up today because he has a trailer and the bike is missing the left mirror, so I could'nt drive it home. When we got to my garage, my buddy wanted to ride the bike to see what it felt like. This is a guy from London who has been riding since he was like 9 years old. I kinda thought he knew what he was talking about. But he rode the bike only around the block a couple of times and when he came back what he told me kinda threw me.

He said the bike felt like it had been set up for racing. That's why there was virtually know friction zone and you had to rev it so high in first. He told me that while he was riding it, he had to rev it super high to change gears or it would lug really bad. Now I know next to nothing about bikes. And the guy who I bought the bike from was the second owner. All he knew was there was a vance and hines pipe added and that the bike had been rejetted for the pipe.

Well, I don't know if what my buddy said was true, or how to tell for myself. I don't want a bike that's going to be too much for me. That was the point of me buying an older 600 and waiting until next year to ride it.
My questions are, how can I really tell if what he said was true. And how can I change it to be more suitable to a bike that I would want to learn and improve on?

I appreciate any help that anyone can give me and thanks in advance.

If you aren't comfortable working on the bike yourself spend a couple hundred dollars and bring it to a dealer and tell them to "fix" it for you.

Does the bike idle well? Or does it have a hard time at low RPMs? It is possible that it has a cam with a lot of valve overlap, which will screw with the low RPM torque but make more power at speed. Similar things can happen if the intake system was messed with (e.g. major carb changes, airbox/air filter changes, etc). Iit could have a lightened flywheel and/or a stiffer than normal clutch. The simplest explanation I can think of is different sprockets.... if someone wanted better top speed (or fuel economy), or just felt like it, they might've gone up o the front/down on the back/both. That'll make it hard to get rolling in 1st and put a higher load on the engine in all gears (which means you need to spin the engine faster).

None of this is necessarily bad of course. You just need to know what's what so you can adapt it to your needs. You might really like having a tuned engine once you get used to it.

It could also be signs of a problem... plugged up passages in the carbs or something else.

If it was me, especially knowing that you aren't looking to ride this bike until next season, I'd start with the simple stuff (e.g. count the teeth on the sprockets and compare to the numbers in the service manual) and then go through the fuel/induction system (carbs, air filters, etc) just cleaning and verifying everything. Especially verifying that it has what the manual says it should have. For all you know it has carbs off a different bike or something like that.

Sounds like fun to me... but I'm weird that way.

I agree on the sprocket(s) as a possible reason for the high rpms to get moving. The quickest and cheapest way to get more top end is to get taller gearing via a bigger c/s sprocket or a smaller rear, or a combo of both. I 'd check those out first to see if they were OEM

thanks for the responses guys. Lucky for me the guy I bought it from bought the service manual off of ebay and he gave it to me with the bike. I will be pulling the fairings off today to start repairing and sanding for painting, so I will start checking on the sprockets and other stuff today.

I agree, sounds like tall sprockets. Simplist way is to just go one tooth lower at the engine sprocket. Should still have enough play in the chain to adjust it without breaking a link. Should solve the problem if nothing else is wrong. And it's a cheap fix.

Another th0ught while you'r inspecting the sprockets...you may as well check both sprockets for hooking. The front (it's called a countershaft sprocket, BTW) is often worn the most just beause of its smaller size and either one can ruin a chain quickly. Also check the chain for excess stretch. First, adjust the chain to proper specs. Then grasp one link on the rear sprocket at about 3: o'clock and try to pull it away from the sprocket. If you can see more than 1/2 a tooth, dump the chain & both sprockets & replace all. Any wear on any of these parts will soon ruin the others.
More info than you wanted? Oh well, save it for later