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Can someone give me a general walkthrough on what this entails? I'm going to be doing it for the first time with my Rad next week and I'd like to know what I'm getting myself in to. I've read over my shop manual's description and was given a walkthrough by a guy who knows his stuff about Radians, but more help is always appreciated. Specifically, pressing in the new master link and flaring the end of the pin (do I do it on the rear sprocket or just freehanging?).

Any help is appreciated.

You want the chain on both sprockets when making the master connection. With the wheel adjusted forward so you have some slack to work with. Sometimes it is easier to slide the masterlink pins through the ends of the chain if both ends meet while engaged in the teeth of the rear sprocket. Slide the master link in from behind so that the link plate is rivited from the outside, facing you.

my radian did just fine with a standard chain with the master link that is held on by a spring clip.so have all the other bikes i have owned.if you are talking about beating the rivets flat with a press on type link that sucks.there are tools made to expand the rivets correctly.if you use the spring clip master link you can remove the chain easly if you have to.if you use the press type any time you remove chain you will have to break it.and get a new press type link.

I'm getting ready to replace the chain and sprockets on my Vulcan. My manual really doesn't cover it much at all. Anybody want to give me a quick run-through of the basics. Can't imagine it's all that difficult. I have a clip connector for the chain so I don't have to deal with rivets. Any thought on removing the old chain if I don't have a chain breaker? Anything else I ought to know before starting? Thanks-

I would choose the riveted chain over the master clip every time. I also have the $80 tool. My current ride is shaft drive.

Anybody want to give me a quick overview on how to change the chain and sprockets?

If your old chain is scrap, cut it off with a rotary cut-off tool or a grinder. Just watch you don't tag the bike with the spinning abrasive wheel, cut the chain someplace between the sprockets where it hangs free so as to stay as far away from other parts as possible. The sprockets are a simple bolt-on, bolt-off affair, but the bolts will probably be loc-tighted into the rear wheel, so be warned. It might be easier to break the nut bolding the front sprocket loose with the wheel and chain in place, so you can keep the countershaft from turning when you honk on the nut.

Bolt on the new sprockets.... use loc-tight again in the rear wheel, and the countershaft sprocket probably has a locking-tab washer to keep it from loosening.... you should be able to re-use it, just fold up a new section of the washer.

Run the chain over the sprockets (it is easiest to buy the same number of links as you have now, rather than cutting off the extra links. Then just install the masterlink and adjust the chain to spec.

I've used both rivited links and spring-clip links with equal success, it's your call. You need a chain rivit tool to install the rivited type. If you go with a spring-clip style, just make sure that the open end of the clip is facing away from the direction of chain travel, so it doesn't catch on something and get popped off.

Then lube the chain, the stuff they use when making the chain is not very good.

Thanks for the info Buzz. I'm going to be doing that tomorrow so we'll see how it goes.

Go for it. It is pretty straight forward, you should have no trouble.

Sorry to bump an old thread, but got the new chain on and she's rolling with it. Put on over 200 miles today and it works like a dream!