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Time to just throw this model plane in the trash. Been working on it for a while and quite frankly I'm tired of screwing up little "poo poo" tasks. After all the first time new builder mistakes I keep making I kept pressing and chalking it up to inexperience and the learning process. Quite frankly after this decal debacle and the idiots that cannot label the instructions properly, I'm fixing to throw the damn model out the window and see if it can fly.


I'm actually real tired of everything going on in my life right now. If it weren't so frustrating I'd find it funny how this airplane reminds me of me.

Throw it away? But then you'd miss the thrill of watching all that fiddly little work scatter itself all over the ground 6 seconds after your first take-off.

I've had 3 RC planes..... and 3 RC flights. Every one of them ended with a really neat plume of balsa and plastic.

That's why I run nitro trucks now. Even more fun to my way of thinking, way cool engineering and lots of cool stuff to mess with, and even when you really screw up and punch a solid object at 45+, a few, pretty cheap, replacement parts gets you back up and running.

Here's my truck a couple of weeks ago, with a fresh body, wing, tires and wheels. It won't look this good again until the next round of 'replace-the-messed-up-stuff-itis' hits me. And that will be awhile, the next thing it gets is a bigblock engine next week.....

You think your model is tedious, try out the Puzz3D New York City puzzle. Oh my god, I bought that thing so long ago and I still only completed the Empire State Building and one of the World Trade Centers... I don't think the miniature taxi counts as it was really easy to put together.

I also got me one of them Tamiya Calsonic Nissan Skyline RCs that I haven't played with in a few years.

In a fit of rage I destroyed a model of a Ducati motorcycle because one of the noticeable pieces snapped when I tried to pry something off the dried paint.

The cheap glue I used on my NYC subway showed me how cheap it was when I picked it up and it fell apart. Time to use some Loctite Super Glue.

Now I just build and customize my PCs and Laptops. I do miss the smell of the glue and glossy paint.

JC Viper wrote:
In a fit of rage I destroyed a model...

I'm about right there

hmmm ive got a rc tmaxx that was given to me if I could fix it. Motor starts but only stays running for oh 20 seconds before it stalls. Took the motor apart cleaned it and then reinstalled but havent attempted to restart it in ooohhhh 3 months. I may just have to get it back out this coming weekend (i put after run oil in it before I let it sit for 3 months).

If the motor starts and runs, even for only 20 seconds, it's a simple tuning problem. Is it a 2.5 or 3.3? Either way set the high speed needle (hsn)... the one the fuel line runs to... at 4 turns out from bottomed. Set the low speed needle (lsn)... the one one the carb throttle slide.... at 1 3/4 turns from bottomed. Set the idle screw so there is about a 1 mm gap in the throttle slide when closed (about the thickness of a credit card). This is factory default settings and will get you close enough to start the engine and begin to tune it.

Do NOT! run Traxxas fuel. It has waaay too much oil in it. Run a good quality 'race' type fuel with 10-12% oil. Top Fuel has about 23% oil. Your engine will run much better with the lower oil content.

Shorts wrote:

JC Viper wrote:
In a fit of rage I destroyed a model...

I'm about right there

I had the paint all glossed up and it started to look like it's in showroom condition until I noticed some kinda carboard spec that must've come off when I picked up the dried piece to put the decals on. What started out as 500 pieces easily became 1000.

BuzZz wrote:If the motor starts and runs, even for only 20 seconds, it's a simple tuning problem. Is it a 2.5 or 3.3? Either way set the high speed needle (hsn)... the one the fuel line runs to... at 4 turns out from bottomed. Set the low speed needle (lsn)... the one one the carb throttle slide.... at 1 3/4 turns from bottomed. Set the idle screw so there is about a 1 mm gap in the throttle slide when closed (about the thickness of a credit card). This is factory default settings and will get you close enough to start the engine and begin to tune it.

Do NOT! run Traxxas fuel. It has waaay too much oil in it. Run a good quality 'race' type fuel with 10-12% oil. Top Fuel has about 23% oil. Your engine will run much better with the lower oil content.

sweet thanks. I got 10% oil fuel. as for 2.5 or 3.3 I have no idea I would have to look when I get home . I am assuming by turns your meaning full turns not half or 1/4 turns. meaning 360 degrees is 1 full turn.

ofblong wrote:..... I am assuming by turns your meaning full turns not half or 1/4 turns. meaning 360 degrees is 1 full turn.

You assume correctly.

And when tuning, a turn is usually broken down into 'hours' meaning 1/12 of a turn. You will most probably be rich to start with (hell, I'm willing to bet you are), so start turning the needles in by one hour increments, test running it and then re-adjusting. Always tune the hsn first, it controls the amount of fuel to the lsn, so it must be set before you start messing with the lsn. Lean it out until it runs clean but still leaves a good trail of blue smoke. If you ever get to the point you do not see smoke, stop and richen it up immediately, or it will melt down on you. Then do the same thing for the lsn, and adjust the idle stop to correct any idle change.

Oh yeah, just in case... you probably realized this already, but turning any of the needles in (clockwise) is leaning the mixture, out is richer.

Get that thing out and beat on it!

I still play with Legos! I love my Star Wars edition of these toys. I'm a big kid at heart.

Getting another model Shorts?