Only motorcycle oil from now on. 92 Nighthawk

[ChriswithaHawk]

Start of the year I figured I'd change the oil in my 92 nighthawk (wet clutch). Having being rather new to motorcycles, I made the mistake of putting regular motor oil in my bike. I figured I could save a couple bucks on an oil change. Well, recently I've been experiencing problems shifting. I got a clymers manual and discussed it with some people to resolve that my difficulties with shifting are linked with the additives in the oil contaminating/glazing over the clutch plates. I've since changed out the oil with the actual motorcycle oil that is supposed to be in my bike. The problem still exists however its seemed to level off. Riding season for mainers like me is almost over. i plan to store it and have it worked on in the spring.

Heres the question...

Any idea what it would run me to have someone rip the clutch apart and replace the clutch plates? is there an easier route. someone at my work place said something about transmission fluid in the oil removes the glaze, which doesn't register to me at all and I really am not interested in attempting it.

Also on top of all of this I'm having problems starting the bike now. doesn't turn over and makes an odd clicking noise. could this be the starter motor? if it was the battery then it would just fail to turn over, ,right? the clutch sticking/slipping couldn't have anything to do with the starting problems could it. I've got it in neutral when I'm trying to start it and out of force of habit I'm holding down the clutch.

[mydlyfkryzis]

The battery could have a low charge. It may be low on electrolyte. (Omnly add distilled water).
The starter solenoid could broken.
The battery terminals could be loose or dirty.
The wires from the battery could be loose on the solenoid terminals.
The starter one way clutch could be bad.
The wire to the starter could be loose.
The starter brushes could be worn.
Could be a loose connection to the starter switch on the handle bars.
Could be a loose ground wire.

The clutch has nothing to do with the starting issue.

As far as oil. I use Shell Rotella T synthetic 5W40 on my NH750. The oil has no friction modifiers. It is less that $17 for a gallon at Walmart. It is great for this bike.

The clutch, if you are handy, is pretty easy to replace. Since you have a 92, I'd replace the springs while you were at it. The bike is 15 years old...

[Sev]

I vote either low charge or loose connection. Most likely low charge.

As for ripping apart the clutch... you're looking at ABOUT 1.5 hours worth of work X your local shop rate + parts.

Best of luck.

[coffee_brake]

If you are at all mechanically inclined, it might be worth your while to check the Clymer's manual to see if you can do this clutch plate inspection/cleaning yourself over the winter. A Clymer's manual will guide you through it, no problem.

I was "educated" about using car oil in a bike before it was too late and changed it out. I'm glad you have a reason to park the bike and get work done during the ice months!

While it sounds like the battery is having some issues and needs charging (if you don't trickle-charge it this winter you will have to replace it come Spring), my Nighthawk gave me fits this summer with a bad connection to the ignition coils, of all things. I had washed the bike and then run it only a few miles, and the steam jacked up the connections. Took off the coils, put 'em back on, all good. Weird, but cheap enough to fix!

Good luck...keep us posted...

[johnbr117]

chris I am really glad you brought up that oil issue. i have a 92 750 night hawk love it . Lots of miles picked it up for 1,500 new tires new bearings ,new chain new brake fluid holder (yes i,m new at this )great right the guy was a safety freak. What was the catch 400 dollars wortht of new oil pan 2 banans for the pan 2banans for the work. Went to change the oil only to find the pan is stripped he had it in there tight but iwas still kind of pissed at the thought of hot oil hit my rear wheel at 55 no a good out come any way when i saw the color of the oil that came out i new this safety freak was also a thief and a careless one( could have gotten me well you know) I found a way with a new bolt and some thread to get it back in hand tight no chance of coming loose . Now i find out from you iam running 20-W50 oil the bike is running like sh8t on cold mornings . I called honda the tech told me get that crap out of there#i winter a no no o think thats why i dont warm up until iam on the highway. have to use the choke. so i am going with 10 w 40 and some lock tight Yes I know about heli coils my buddy says if i bring it to Honda and pay the 4 bills for the replacement he said then you will see leaks like never before.i will be back and forth to honda. Any way thanks for bring that oil thing up iwas told motor for cars can destroy and old engine like mine i have only 1,500 miles ridden so far i love the bike i would spent the money if i thought honda could fix it . Stuck ?????????? what you guys out there think . ride safe all let me know something

[mydlyfkryzis]

Honda calls for 10W-40 oil for the 750 Nighthawk. Going to a higher weight oil will reduce lubrication and oil cooling. The oil pressure is higher, but less volume is moved through the cooler and less volume to the bearings.

The car oil that is bad for wet clutches are those oils with "Energy conserving" in the API circle. There are no energy saving 10w-40 oils. However, some of the 10w-40 's out there may be less optimum for wet clutches.

If you are going Dino oil, I always preferred Castrol GTX.

For synthetic, as I stated earlier, Shell Rotella T synthetic, 5W-40 is great.

The Nighthawk is a gold hearted beast. It takes about 20 minutes for mine to really get normal. However, out of synchronization carburetors will make it worse. I am going to sync my carbs this winter. The bike will always run smoother in sync.

Another reason the bike runs rough is the lean condition for emissions. A popular mod tot he bike can be found here:


http://www.nighthawk750.com/

Look at the left side of the page, choose "Modifications" and then "Carb Needle Mod"

The carb needle mod will enrich the mixture so the bike runs smoother.

[Pongo]

The car oil that is bad for wet clutches are those oils with "Energy conserving" in the API circle. There are no energy saving 10w-40 oils. However, some of the 10w-40 's out there may be less optimum for wet clutches.

The Canadian Tire Motomaster supreme 10W-40 oil was stamped "energy conserving" in 2005. I haven't looked at that brand since, but I wouldn't take it for granted that all other 10W-40 oils are not "Energy conserving".

[invader]

Canadian Tire does sell JASO MA certfied motorcycle specific (wet clutch compatible) 10W40 and 20W50 for $2.99 per quart. Made by Shell, it's equivalent to their Advance S4 motorcycle oil;
http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/produ ... earch=true

Castrol motorcycle oil sold at Canadian Tire for $4.19/liter ($4 at Wal mart) does not have any JASO certification.

I'll just use the Motomaster Formula 1 motorcycle oil for my break-in, then swith to Amsoil synthetic at 2000 Kms...

[Gnarlyroad]

I've been told by my mechanic not to bother using syn oil in my 83 nighthawk. Won't do any good and might actually do some harm. Speaking of clutchs, on my 83 650 I have to remove the motor from the bike and split the case to do any repairs such as replacing the clutch plates. Hope I never have to do it.

[Pongo]

You don’t need to remove the motor to replace the clutch plates and friction discs on the NightHawk 650. It’s only if you need to remove the clutch outer housing that you have to pull the motor.

I've been told by my mechanic not to bother using syn oil in my 83 nighthawk. Won't do any good and might actually do some harm. Speaking of clutchs, on my 83 650 I have to remove the motor from the bike and split the case to do any repairs such as replacing the clutch plates. Hope I never have to do it.