Page 1 of 1

Starts then dies

Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2008 4:48 am
by kmattinson
I have a 1982 yamaha maxim xj550 that i havent had for more than a month. It didnt run when i first got it. So before i tried starting it, I replaced the spark plugs, changed the oil, replaced the battery, and redid the fuse wiring. Yesterday i cranked it over and it started right up and ran for a couple minutes, then when i tried to let off of the choke a little it kept dieing. Today i tried to start it up, and it wont start at all until i sprayed some started fluid in the carbs. Then it just runs for a couple seconds then dies.

This makes me beleive i have a fuel problem, but i took of my carbs and cleaned them the best i could, but they didnt look dirty to begin with. I was wondering if it was something with my fuel switch, since it has the "res" "on" and "PRI" positions. Or the idle adjuster. I dont know much about this bike so if anyone can give me advice on how to get my bike started and on the road i would appreciate it.

I took the carbs all the way apart and found out that my jets were dirty. So i just bought new ones and decided to go up a size. now that I have it all put back together and on the bike it runs good, but the idle is to high. I loosened the idle adjuster all the way but it was already all the way out. So i think i need to mess with the amount of fuel going to the carbs now. any suggestions before i try to do this.

Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2008 7:49 am
by Sev
Fill up the gas tank, clean the fuel filter, and then check to see if your carb jets are clean. Remove the jets from the carb and attempt to look through them in the light. If you cannot see light through them they need another cleaning.

Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2008 9:41 am
by BuzZz
Gas that sits in contact with metal forms a varnish-like coating on that metal. It can be hard to see, it's pretty transparent. Sev is right, your jets sound clogged/restricted. The hole in a jet is only a few thousandths in dia.... a coating of varnish can reduce it enough to screw with your tune, or block it all together.

Most chemical cleaning attempts won't clean that crud out. You usually need some mechanical assistance to go with your chosen solvent. A nylon brush bristle and some carb cleaner works for me. Do the same to all the jets and any small passageways you see in the carb body as well. Then flush it out good with a spray cleaner of some type.

Whatever you clean them with, make sure it is softer material than the brass the jets are made of, scratches in that jet hole can screw with you just like restricting it can.

You might be able to just take the jets to a shop and buy new ones for a few bucks, if they have them in stock, but that don't clean the rest of your carb.

some more advice

Posted: Sat May 03, 2008 6:29 pm
by redcoat
BUY the workshop manual!!!

Repeat after me "Buy the workshop manual!". Go for Haynes or Clymer- thay talk to the common man/woman.

You've had good advice so far. Sure sounds like clogged jets to me.

For the $20 or so it will cost you for jets, buy the jets. It gets one of the unknowns out of the equation.

For maybe an hours labour rate, get the shop to clean the carbs in their dipping tank and blow all the orifices out with compressed air.

Fit an inline filter, $2, before you put the carbs back on.

Then tell us how it goes. Or doesn't.

Justin