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Ok I went through all my connections on my bike for the regulator/rectifier/battery/alternator.

I get 12.64 volts from the battery on the charging line and on the alternator coil line there are 3 plugs with yellow wires. The two perpendicular to each other I get 0.4 ohms (book says I should get .1-1 so thats good) but I get nothing when I touch either of those yellow wires to the 3rd wire.

On the regulator rectifier I get nothing/nada/zilch for any omage going from any wire on one connector to any wire on the other (meaning red on one connector to yellow on other etc etc). The only reading I can get is one the 4 p connector I go red to red and when i go green to green I get ohms I believe it was .1 ohms. So it looks like my rectifier is bad.

When I go back to the stator motor I check each yellow connector with ground (meaning I touch the red lead of my meter to the yellow wire and the black to the ground on the bike which is the metal frame location that my service manual shows) and I get nothing no ohms whatsoever on any of the 3 leads to ground. Could my stator or the wireing to the stator be bad?

as for the battery part when I touch the negative lead to the battery terminal I get less than .1 Ma so the battery is good. When I start the bike the voltage is 12v even and then when I slowly increase it I can only get it to go upto 12.8v so my guess is something is working but not correctly? I am kinda confused. Should I just replace the rectifier and the stator motor? Or based on my info do I just need to replace the rectifier?

ofblong wrote:Ok I went through all my connections on my bike for the regulator/rectifier/battery/alternator.

I get 12.64 volts from the battery on the charging line and on the alternator coil line there are 3 plugs with yellow wires. The two perpendicular to each other I get 0.4 ohms (book says I should get .1-1 so thats good) but I get nothing when I touch either of those yellow wires to the 3rd wire.

On the regulator rectifier I get nothing/nada/zilch for any omage going from any wire on one connector to any wire on the other (meaning red on one connector to yellow on other etc etc). The only reading I can get is one the 4 p connector I go red to red and when i go green to green I get ohms I believe it was .1 ohms. So it looks like my rectifier is bad.

When I go back to the stator motor I check each yellow connector with ground (meaning I touch the red lead of my meter to the yellow wire and the black to the ground on the bike which is the metal frame location that my service manual shows) and I get nothing no ohms whatsoever on any of the 3 leads to ground. Could my stator or the wireing to the stator be bad?

as for the battery part when I touch the negative lead to the battery terminal I get less than .1 Ma so the battery is good. When I start the bike the voltage is 12v even and then when I slowly increase it I can only get it to go upto 12.8v so my guess is something is working but not correctly? I am kinda confused. Should I just replace the rectifier and the stator motor? Or based on my info do I just need to replace the rectifier?

Who told you to test your R/R that way?

When you're testing the stator by looking for resistance between the yellow wires and ground, do you get 0 or do you get no reading/infinite? If you get 0, the stator is bad.

There's a PDF here:
http://www.electrosport.com/technical-r ... iagram.pdf

If you use this diagram, you won't have to ask us any questions other than "where do I get that part?"

jonnythan wrote:

ofblong wrote:Ok I went through all my connections on my bike for the regulator/rectifier/battery/alternator.

I get 12.64 volts from the battery on the charging line and on the alternator coil line there are 3 plugs with yellow wires. The two perpendicular to each other I get 0.4 ohms (book says I should get .1-1 so thats good) but I get nothing when I touch either of those yellow wires to the 3rd wire.

On the regulator rectifier I get nothing/nada/zilch for any omage going from any wire on one connector to any wire on the other (meaning red on one connector to yellow on other etc etc). The only reading I can get is one the 4 p connector I go red to red and when i go green to green I get ohms I believe it was .1 ohms. So it looks like my rectifier is bad.

When I go back to the stator motor I check each yellow connector with ground (meaning I touch the red lead of my meter to the yellow wire and the black to the ground on the bike which is the metal frame location that my service manual shows) and I get nothing no ohms whatsoever on any of the 3 leads to ground. Could my stator or the wireing to the stator be bad?

as for the battery part when I touch the negative lead to the battery terminal I get less than .1 Ma so the battery is good. When I start the bike the voltage is 12v even and then when I slowly increase it I can only get it to go upto 12.8v so my guess is something is working but not correctly? I am kinda confused. Should I just replace the rectifier and the stator motor? Or based on my info do I just need to replace the rectifier?

Who told you to test your R/R that way?

When you're testing the stator by looking for resistance between the yellow wires and ground, do you get 0 or do you get no reading/infinite? If you get 0, the stator is bad.

There's a PDF here:
http://www.electrosport.com/technical-r ... iagram.pdf

If you use this diagram, you won't have to ask us any questions other than "where do I get that part?"

my service manual told me to check the R/R the way I did (other than red to red and green to green I just did that for kicks and giggles). I get no reading or OL when checking the yellow wires to ground.

What does the service manual tell you the resistance between the red and yellow wires of the R/R should be?

jonnythan wrote:What does the service manual tell you the resistance between the red and yellow wires of the R/R should be?

haha your qick

0.5-10 Kohms

ofblong wrote:I get no reading or OL when checking the yellow wires to ground.

"No reading" and "no ohms" are two very different things, BTW. "No ohms" means zero ohms, which indicates a direct electrical connection with no resistance. "No reading" indicates open loop, where the two leads have no connection to each other at all.

ofblong wrote:

jonnythan wrote:What does the service manual tell you the resistance between the red and yellow wires of the R/R should be?

haha your qick

0.5-10 Kohms

And what was your multimeter set to when you took the reading?

jonnythan wrote:

ofblong wrote:

jonnythan wrote:What does the service manual tell you the resistance between the red and yellow wires of the R/R should be?

haha your qick

0.5-10 Kohms

And what was your multimeter set to when you took the reading?

Killa Just printed out that ff list you posted and Ill try testing it that way .

sigh I feel mentally challenged now. I went through that printout and got down to the stator motor (rectifier seems fine when doing it the way in the link). I get 1 good wire and 2 bad so I start to take the rectifier off and then look to see 3 wiring harness's going through a metal "loop". One happens to be the stator motor wire so I bend down the metal loop and pull out the wire. one wire is cut in half the second is half way cut through and the third is just fine. Time to head to home depot and get some heat shrink and some wire unions. Hopefully this problem didnt short out the stator.

*edit

respliced the wires and now I am getting 14v at 5krpms. I am a happy camper now. that would explain why adding any "addons" to this thing it would kill the battery.

ofblong wrote:
respliced the wires and now I am getting 14v at 5krpms. I am a happy camper now. that would explain why adding any "addons" to this thing it would kill the battery.

Electrical add-ons will only kill your battery if they draw more Watts than your charging system puts out - then they start draining the battery.

as an example, the stator on my KLR puts out 268W. of that, most goes to normal bike functions (lights, ignition, etc...), leaving me with 70W of excess power for accessories.

I'm currently running a GPS, Communication System and electric vest. The highest drain item is the electric vest at about 26W or thereabouts. Alternately, I could turn everything off and run a pair of 35W driving lights.