Which chain to buy?

[Toyuzu]

My FJ 600 seems to be quickly saying good-bye to it's chain. I'm having to tighten it way too often, and the adjustment is almost at it's limit. It's a 530 O-ring chain, and I've done a bit of research, but there seems to be an unbelievable variety, and price range. Can anyone recommend a good chain that won't leave me wondering if I could have just bought another bike with the money?

[BuzZz]

Tsubaki, RK, D.I.D., Regina, EK, Moose, Sidewinder.... all good brands for links. Most offer different quailty levels within thier brands, but as long as you use another "O Ring" chain, you should be good-4-go. 'Racing' chain is ussually what they call thier top of the line product and may be slightly lighter than the rest of thier line, but the extra cost isn't worth it for most streetbikes.

Obligatory comment about changing sprockets at the same time........

[Toyuzu]

Tsubaki, RK, D.I.D., Regina, EK, Moose, Sidewinder.... all good brands for links. Most offer different quailty levels within thier brands, but as long as you use another "O Ring" chain, you should be good-4-go. 'Racing' chain is ussually what they call thier top of the line product and may be slightly lighter than the rest of thier line, but the extra cost isn't worth it for most streetbikes.

Obligatory comment about changing sprockets at the same time........

Thanks BuzZz. The sprocket thing though - I've inspected my rear pretty closely, and based on the info in my Clymer, it still looks ok. What's the reasoning for replacing the sprockets at the same time if they don't seem to be worn?

Is that along the same lines as putting a non-directinal finish on your rotors whenever you change brake pads, so the new pads aren't wearing into the same pattern as the old ones? I can accept that I guess if that's the case. I work in a machine shop afterall, I can understand the wear that can't be seen, and weakening of metal, etc.

I just never heard that you're supposed to replace both at once before. (First bike with a chain.)

[9000white]

the tried and true method is to replace the chain and sprockets at the same time.i have tried just replacing the chain a few times and it was always a disaster.

[BuzZz]

Even if you can't see it, the sprockets have worn to match the chain pitch and imperfections. Your stretched chain is slightly longer from pin to pin that a new one, and your sprockets have worn to accept that new, larger pitch. Putting a new chain on those sprockets will accellerate the chain wear to match the old sprockets. It will work, but you won't get the life out of it you should.

One way to slightly extend driveline life is to start out with all new parts, chain and both sprockets. The front sprocket, being smaller and each tooth takeing more stress than those on the rear, will wear fastest of all 3 parts. You can change the front one halfway through the lifecycle of the system and it will wear into the chain pitch, rather than completely wearing out and eating up the rest of the components early.

[Toyuzu]

Okay, thanks for the info. I'm convinced. Guess I have to save some more pennies.