Total Motorcycle Community Forums

So, I was riding home from work today, pulled up to a stoplight...waited; light turned green...rolled on it and the bike died. No biggy, 'hawks have a tendancy to spit themselves out...so i went to fire her back up and got nuthin. Luckily there was a gas station right there and I roller her into the parking lot. I fuddled with the connections on the battery but there was still nothing...enough juice to turn the lights on, but not enough to turn the started...I only got a "click click click" out of it. I got a jump and it turned right over. This battery is brand new this season and is a top shelf battery. I know 'Hawks are known for their regulator/rectifiers going out...and was thinking this could be the problem. Any thoughts?

good procedure to follow > > > check battery voltage with multi-meter. If voltage is lower than 12.6 fully charge battery. Start bike check voltage with bike running. This voltage will vary depending on electrical load, the output capabilities of your bike and idle speed.......... On my bikes they all charge at at least 13.5 with the most load and a slower idle than normal My VLX always stayed right at 14 volts even. If this is low then the charging system is your problem. If after charging the bike still wont start you have bad connection somewhere or bad solenoid or starter or battery problem. Yes you can have a bad battery that you just bought. Some venders have very old stock I have seen 7 year old batteries sold as new from several places. Bottom line get a cheap meter if you don't have one $20 from harbor freight or walmart or even most parts stores now. A meter is cheaper than one mis-diagnosed part. If you need more info just ask there are several mechanics here on this forum.

Yup, his procedure. But check your specific voltage and rpm requirements. Most bikes have a specific window at a specific RPM. A friend's Aprilia only does 12.6 at idle, but it's within the 13-15 VDC at 4K RPM window so it's working properly.

You sir are the victim of Hondarectifieritis. I've been there, done that with my VTR1000 and my VFR750. If there is one weakness on a Honda, this is it.

The new ones are larger and have more cooling capacity. Once you replace it, you should be done with the issue. Neither one of my replacement rectifiers ever went bad.

BTW aren't the VTRs a biyatch to bump start? When mine went bad my good friends TotalMike and Sunshine229 had the pleasure of pushing across the parking lot several times while I tried to get her going. They will run in this case, if you keep the revs above 4500rpm all the way home. Change the rectifier and you'll be fine.

High_Side wrote: BTW aren't the VTRs a biyatch to bump start? When mine went bad my good friends TotalMike and Sunshine229 had the pleasure of pushing across the parking lot several times while I tried to get her going.

Ah, I comepletely forgot about that still you mentioned it. Hey, that's what friends are for when you are down eh?

Mike

I don't know what a bump start is...I'm guessing it's like popping the clutch. I had the good fortune of my wife being nearby and giving me a jump off her explorer...love you dear!

Would you recommend a rectifier from the Honda dealer or an aftermarket one?

Bump start = push start. And I just went with the Honda part myself, although on the internet there is all kids of crap that people are doing. Like I said, once I replaced the original part with the new Honda part on both bikes I was good.

I have used some electrical parts from RICKS ELECTRICS I have never had a problem with them. normally I would price them compared to an OE part and see what makes the most sense. Some times the RICKS parts are redesigned sometimes not. I dont know where you guys normally get your oe parts but cheap cycle parts has been a lot cheaper for me 95% of the time. Whats more I dont have a dealer telling me not to order the part just get a new bike. Yes my local dealer wouldnt order me the valve cover gaskets I needed when i got my magna they told me it was time for a new bike........