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14K miles full tune up.

he said the reason my cylinders didn't feel right was 9 valves were out of adjustments. he fixed that for me and on the ride home, she did feel like her old zippy self.

also, he replaced my air filter with K&N one. he said this one shouldn't need replacing and can just be cleaned.

i really wish i knew that if i paid with cash, i could have gotten 35$ off that price. oh well, next time.

i was gonna use that money for the new samsung galaxy note 2 but even though i don't use her much nowadays, she still takes priority over a new phone.

Good thing you took your bike in for a tune up! Lots of riders just keep riding their bikes and never taking them into the dealer for a tune up and never knowing what they are missing out on (I'm guilty of this myself but I do my own tune ups). Lots of bikes don't really need the full tune up intervals either but they DO need a tune up once in a while.

You will be happy with the K&N filter, I've run them for many, many years and they may not add much performance but the air suction sounds great if they are in a spot where you can hear it.

Remember, taxes help pay for the roads and we all want nice new roads to ride on.

Mike

totalmotorcycle wrote:
Remember, taxes help pay for the roads and we all want nice new roads to ride on.

Mike

good point. yeah, i don't feel as bad now since i don't need to be penny pinching yet.

I was gonna have mine done at the dealer but the Harley guys are pretty clueless on mine, so I am gonna get a manual and do it my self on my 12K service the motor needs to be rotated and valve clearance checked as well as plug change might as well do everything I can while I'm in there.

Motor needs to be rotated???

Yea, the Rotax engine need to be rotated down to access the rear jug.

Ohhhh I was very confused there for a sec. Thinking it needed to be rotated so that the front jug is now the rear or vice versa. You're just dropping the front mount though to access the valves on the rear jug, right?

Yeah sorry the Rotax motor in a Buell is actually part of the frame in it's design and must be rotated down to get to the rear cyl. The exhaust must come off, linkages and cables as well as some other stuff a pita but not terrible. You can change the plugs without rotating the motor but it is difficult if you don't have skinny arms

Gotcha. It's kinda like trying to get the valve cover off of most any modern I4 sportbike like Verm's GSXR. Much easier to drop the exhaust, radiator, and rotate the motor down.

Wrider wrote:Thinking it needed to be rotated so that the front jug is now the rear or vice versa

Hey why not, the rear jug has a harder life as it is subjected to lot more heat.